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Judgement of London: celebrating wine not origin

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Judgement of London: celebrating wine not origin

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It was a blind tasting the place wine worlds blurred slightly than collided; the place ‘Outdated World’ and ‘New World’ felt out of date towards nuance, texture, magnificence and stability.

Following 4 hours of judging 32 wines – eight pairs of whites and eight pairs of reds – by a panel of 21 Masters of Wine, Grasp Sommeliers and different UK wine specialists, the margin of distinction between Europe and the Remainder of the World (ROW) within the Judgement of London got here down to simply 0.65%.


Scroll right down to see the pairings of European and Remainder of the World wines


Judgement of London judges

Judges and organisers of the Judgement of London tasting on the London Wine Honest on 20 Might 2024. Credit score: AnthonyUpton.com

A degree enjoying discipline

Europe triumphed, its 16 wines incomes a complete of two,621.5 factors (a mean of seven.8 out of 10 for every), towards ROW’s 2,604.5 factors (7.75/10).

Nevertheless, prime white and general top-scoring wine went to a New Zealand Riesling: Pegasus Bay’s 2011 Bel Canto from Waipara in North Canterbury. The runner-up white was one other ROW Riesling: Grosset’s 2012 Polish Hill from Clare Valley in South Australia.

Rhône and Bordeaux took the plaudits within the reds, with Domaine J-L Chave’s 2012 Hermitage the highest scorer, forward of 2009 Château Mouton Rothschild.

Held on the London Wine Honest (LWF) on 20 Might, the Judgement of London was a tribute to the late Steven Spurrier, Decanter’s marketing consultant editor and columnist for 27 years, and instigator of the 1976 Judgment of Paris.

Whereas that tasting 48 years in the past noticed ‘New World’ California Chardonnays and Cabernets overcome extra well-known ‘Outdated World’ Burgundy and Bordeaux, this take aimed to mirror the fashionable tremendous wine panorama.

Conceived by LWH director Hannah Tovey, who met Spurrier when she began her wine profession at Decanter, the Judgment of London introduced collectively a broader spectrum of wines from throughout Europe and past.

Ronan Sayburn MW, Decanter World Wine Awards co-Chair and CEO of the Court docket of Grasp Sommeliers, and Sarah Abbott MW, founder and director of the Swirl Wine Group, chosen the wines for the tasting, 80% of them despatched in instantly from the producers.

Every pair comprised a European wine and a ROW counterpart matched by model – largely by grape selection or mix however a number of pairs by texture. Producers had the selection of which classic to ship in, as long as it was between 2005 and 2020.

Sarah Abbott MW, Hannah Tovey and Ronan Sayburn MS

Sarah Abbott MW, Hannah Tovey and Ronan Sayburn MS, organisers of the Judgement of London.

Assessing the inherent qualities

Forward of the tasting Abbott inspired the judges to not concentrate on ‘whether or not wine A was higher than wine B’ – or to ‘pull out the occasion tips’ of making an attempt to guess the identification of a wine, however to ‘get into its soul’ and assess it purely on its inherent qualities.

Sayburn agreed, and in his deal with to the judges he emphasised that ‘discovering a winner or loser was not the aim of this tasting’.

Somewhat, it was to point out how producers within the ‘so-called New World’ are actually making wines higher tailored to their very own climates, clones and communities, slightly than simply making an attempt to emulate conventional European kinds. And with that has come higher magnificence, stability, size, depth and distinction.

‘Again in 1976 it was the underdog – California – versus the institution – France,’ Sayburn mentioned.

‘The underdog gained, however issues have modified quite a bit. Now there isn’t a New World and Outdated World distinction; terminology like that’s being rightly dropped as there’s a rather more degree enjoying discipline on the earth of wine. The traces are undoubtedly blurred.’

Abbott mentioned Spurrier was not canonical or conservative in his wine tastes; certainly he delighted in discovering magnificence and variety all over the place he went, so this contemporary tribute to his authentic 1976 occasion was becoming one.

Judgement of London wines: My take

Whereas the highest two reds and whites, and the general prime scorer, have been revealed on the LWF on 22 Might, all of the judges had their private favourites – some very a lot at odds with the final consensus when the judging completed and all of us had a debrief.

I used to be thrilled to see Pegasus Bay in prime spot, and actually gave the identical rating to the Grosset Riesling, Cervaro della Sala and Tahbilk Viognier. Within the reds, I additionally gave my prime mark to the triumphant J-L Chave Hermitage, however the Promontory and Qvevri Saperavi have been my private runners up over the Mouton Rothschild.

Some pairs I scored identically, such because the Felton Street and Louis Jadot Chardonnays and the Livio Felluga and Au Bon Climat white blends, however generally I most popular the ROW whites and the European reds.

It was an interesting train, and a humbling expertise in lots of circumstances; blind tasting at all times is. I used to be satisfied the Tahbilk Viognier was an aged Hunter Valley Semillon and was vice versa on the origins of the sweetly fruited 2017 Dujac Bonnes-Mares and agency, lean 2019 Storm Pinot.

So out with the Outdated – and New – World and different such dated ideas, and in with terroir, magnificence, magnificence and pleasure. Nice wine actually does come from all corners of the world.


Judgement of London white wine line up

Judgement of London: White wine pairs

Listed so as of tasting

Riesling
Grosset, Polish Hill Riesling, Clare Valley, South Australia 2012
Trimbach, Clos Ste-Hune Riesling, Alsace, France 2008

Chardonnay
Antinori, Cervaro della Sala, Umbria, Italy 2018
Kistler, Les Noisetiers Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, California, USA 2018

Chardonnay
Louis Jadot, Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, France 2017
Felton Street, Block 6 Chardonnay, Central Otago, New Zealand 2017

Mix
Au Bon Climat, Hildegard, Santa Maria Valley, California USA 2020
Livio Felluga, Terre Alte, Friuli Colli Orientali, Italy 2020

Sauvignon Blanc
Château Smith Haut Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan GCC, Bordeaux, France 2017
Peter Michael Vineyard, L’Apres Midi, Sonoma County, California, USA 2014

Textured
Prime white and Prime general Pegasus Bay, Bel Canto Dry Riesling, Waipara, North Canterbury, New Zealand 2011
Franz Hirtzberger, Singerriedel Riesling Smaragd, Wachau, Austria 2019 (magnum)

Rhône
Tahbilk, Viognier, Nagambie Lakes, Victoria, Australia 2011
Domaine Gonon, Les Oliviers, St-Joseph, Rhône, France 2020

Textured
Quinta dos Roques, Encruzado, Dão, Portugal 2014
David & Nadia, Skaliekop Chenin Blanc, Swartland, South Africa 2019


Red wine glasses at the Judgement of London

Judgement of London: Purple wine pairs

Listed so as of tasting

Pinot Noir
Storm, Ridge Pinot Noir, Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, Walker Bay, South Africa 2019
Domaine Dujac, Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, Burgundy, France 2017

Pinot Noir
Meyer-Näkel, Pfarrwingert Spätburgunder GG, Ahr, Germany 2019
Hirsch Vineyards, San Andreas Fault Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California, USA 2019

Cabernet Sauvignon
Promontory, Napa Valley, California, USA 2019
Runner-up crimson Château Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac 1CC, Bordeaux, France 2009

Cabernet Sauvignon
Château Léoville Las Circumstances, St Julien 2CC, Bordeaux, France 2009
Viñedo Chadwick, Alto Maipo, Chile 2015

Syrah
Trinity Hill, Homage Syrah, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand 2018
Prime crimson Domaine J-L Chave, Hermitage, Rhône, France 2012

Textured
Qvevri Wine Cellar, Saperavi Qvevri, Kakheti, Georgia 2019
Clonakilla, Shiraz-Viognier, Canberra, New South Wales, Australia 2015

Grenache
Torbreck, Hillside Winery Grenache, Barossa Valley, South Australia 2016
Clos Mogador, Gratallops, Priorat, Spain 2019

Cabernet Franc
Clos Rougeard, Saumur-Champigny, Loire, France 2018
Gran Enemigo, Cabernet Franc, Gualtallary, Mendoza, Argentina 2018


Associated articles

How we style wine at Decanter

Decanter World Wine Awards: outcomes out 19 June

Wine world legend Steven Spurrier, 1941-2021

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