In search of the DNA of recent Rosebank

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In search of the DNA of recent Rosebank

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June 11, 2024

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Hello, that is one in all our (virtually) every day tastings. Santé!


June 11, 2024

In search of the DNA of recent Rosebank

with some outdated 11, 13 and 14

Rosebank

({Photograph} by the very glorious Falkirk Herald)

I am undecided who tipped off the Falkirk Herald that Rosebank was referred to as the “Sleeping Big of Scottish Distilleries” – properly, we have now our suspicions – however in any case, we have been knowledgeable that the V2.0 of the distillery is now open to the general public. The primary cask was stuffed in June 2023, which we duly celebrated, if I bear in mind accurately. Ian Macleod is marking this new occasion by providing a 1989 for £3,200, however for us, given the circumstances, that is not very fascinating. We predict it is preferable to style some Rosebank that’s as shut as attainable, in concept, to the brand new spirit produced by the distillery, which isn’t even a 12 months outdated but. Thankfully, WF’s pattern library is sort of in depth, and we have now unearthed three younger Rosebanks from Cadenhead’s that we had not but tasted however that got here in very just lately. Does that sound good to you?

I might wish to take this chance to share a little bit story with you. About ten years in the past, I used to frequent Harry’s Bar on Rue Daunou in Paris. One wonderful night, I used to be sitting on the counter (on Hemingway’s stool, I used to be instructed, however there have to be a great hundred of these in Paris, to not point out Havana, and many others.) once I overheard a younger couple proper subsequent to me, talking with a powerful Glaswegian accent. I could not assist however eavesdrop, and I observed that they had been admiring a bottle among the many rows of whiskies on the opposite facet of the counter: a comparatively younger Rosebank from G&M! So, I struck up a dialog and realized that the younger couple was from Falkirk, and that they knew the distillery very properly as they handed it on daily basis. Nonetheless, they’d by no means seen it in operation and had by no means tasted its malt. With out a second thought, I ordered a glass for every of them, and I consider they began to cry, so significant was it for them to style Rosebank from Falkirk in Paris, the place they had been on their honeymoon, if I bear in mind accurately.

On the Harry’s Bar not that way back

I feel I’ve by no means derived a lot pleasure from providing somebody a dram; whisky, in spite of everything, is all about evoking feelings, typically unintentionally. In any case, I sincerely hope that this charming couple will now have the prospect to go to their beloved Rosebank Distillery for the primary time of their lives. And maybe they are going to even be supplied a style of that well-known new 1989! (properly…)

Rosebank 11 yo 1980/1992 (60.1%, Cadenhead, 150th Anniversary, Authentic Collection, cask #92/35)

Rosebank 11 yo 1980/1992 (60.1%, Cadenhead, a hundred and fiftieth Anniversary, Genuine Assortment, cask #92/35)

We stay considerably circumspect relating to R. at younger age, as the previous official 8-year-old was not all the time very thrilling, and the 12-year-old for Italy was not essentially so both. The 12 yo Flora & Fauna was already higher, the outdated 15 was excellent, and the 20… purely magical! (WF 93). However that one was not a younger Rosebank (finely noticed, S.) Color: amber. Nostril: sublimely fascinating arrival, with notes of polishes, roasted hazelnuts, outdated camphor balm, vintage copper and silver objects, and a very extraordinary sherry, probably from a solera cask (although these are stated to be very inconsistent). It then transitions to grand cru chocolate and stays there. With water: as usually with ex-sherry, the earthiness comes via, along with treasured woods, outdated walnuts, a classic tobacco pouch, adopted by apricots and some sultanas. In any case, it isn’t a citrus bomb. Mouth (neat): it has retained nice energy regardless of thirty years within the bottle. Nevertheless it’s true that at 60% ABV, with a great cork and no mild, it might final eternally (if it weren’t for, properly, us). Magnificent pepper, barely chemical waxes, marmalade, and grapefruit zest. It speaks volumes, as they are saying. With water: now that is humorous, this time it is all about oranges, in all their types. With the sherry, it dances an ideal tango. End: and right here comes the pepper once more, this time in all types too. Pink, inexperienced, black, floor, crushed… You get the thought. Within the signature, Sichuan pepper bursting with mandarins. Feedback: we’re already very excessive. So to talk.

SGP:651 – 92 factors.

Rosebank 13 yo 1980/1993 (59.3%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection)

Rosebank 13 yo 1980/1993 (59.3%, Cadenhead, Genuine Assortment)

Bottled in July 1993, the 12 months the distillery was closed. Alas! I’ve by no means recognized during which month this closure occurred, so I can’t say if, when this 1980 was bottled, it was an lively distillery or a ‘misplaced’ one. However does this type of element actually matter? Everybody, besides a couple of good historians, did not actually care about closed distilleries, and plenty of had been pondering that if they’d been closed, it was as a result of their manufacturing was of inferior high quality. Tsk tsk. Color: deep gold. Nostril: to be trustworthy, it’s extremely near the 11-year-old, the sherry is only a bit extra discreet, permitting the much-anticipated recent citrus fruits to look. It’s extremely fascinating to see how sherry, even when it is luxurious, can considerably block a distillate, particularly one which leans in direction of magnificence. In any case, the end result right here stays magnificent, with extra tangerines, oranges, pink grapefruits… However the remainder of it stays sherry. With water: no, it’s extremely lovely, waxy, with outdated citrus cordials and, particularly, an outdated Bénédictine facet. That is smashing, as they are saying. Mouth (neat): lemon tree honey but additionally a barely soapy facet (although we have not added water but). This could additionally come from the bottle if it has been saved within the mild, or from the closure. However make no mistake, it is nonetheless glorious and the soapy touches may disappear with water. Or be amplified… With water: it would not work too properly. A stale pepper facet. A disgrace… End: similar, however the citrus fruits make a beautiful comeback within the aftertaste. Feedback: it’s kind of sophisticated. However what a nostril!

SGP:662 – 85 factors.

Rosebank 14 yo1966/1980 (46%, Cadenhead, Aberdeen, black dumpy, 75cl)

From W.M. Cadenhead once they had been nonetheless primarily based in Aberdeen. It is also value remembering that Rosebank means triple distillation and actual worm tubs! Signatory Classic had some Rosebanks from the Nineteen Sixties, true splendours, however I’ve tasted little or no actually outdated Rosebank (aside from the outdated official bottles with ages however with out vintages). Let’s attempt to transfer a bit quicker… Color: gold. Nostril: polish, steel polish, oranges, pink grapefruits, and citrons. Frankly, there is not a lot else, nevertheless it’s so excellent that, actually, you want nothing extra. It is considerably akin to a really wonderful candy Chenin from the Loire, like a Chaume, as an example. Mouth: chic, citrus and outdated waxes. Alright, let’s try an experiment, the shortest palate description on this planet. No, really, the shortest would simply be “!”. Whereas we’re digressing a bit, it jogs my memory of the story of Victor Hugo, in exile in Guernsey, who had simply revealed La Légende des Siècles (I consider) and, being considerably frugal, despatched this easy telegram to his writer to inquire about gross sales: “?”. The response from his writer was: “!”. End: ! Feedback: critically, there may be once more a really, very, however very slight soapy word, instantly related to the waxy facet. In any other case, we would be even greater than…

SGP:651 – 93 factors.

Lengthy stay the brand new Rosebank and congratulations to Ian Macleod! And to the outdated Cadenhead’s.

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