Aeneas Coffey, John Dore and Foursquare

Richard Seale not too long ago posted a really informative and fascinating collection of articles surrounding Steady and Batch Distillation on his private web page, along with his settlement I’ve collated them into one single reference article under.

Aeneas Coffey, John Dore and Foursquare

Half One – The Steady Nonetheless

Aeneas Coffey was not the primary to invent the continual nonetheless, nor was it the primary steady nonetheless for use in Scotch Whisky nonetheless between 1834 and the 1876, seventeen newly put in Coffey stills can be making whisky in Scotland. It proved the muse for the event of blended scotch whisky (developed round 1860), arguably probably the most profitable spirit class of all of them. How did all of it occur? What follows is admittedly solely a quick overview of a historical past that’s each very advanced and really profound.

The late 18th century by the mid nineteenth century noticed outstanding developments in spirit distillation. A drive to extend proof, effectivity and throughput underpinned these developments. We’re specializing in the British, Irish and European developments as this instantly impacted the West Indies however the American story can also be very advanced and value your time.

Early stills by Adam (1801), Pistorius (1817) and Corty (1818) and several other others too quite a few to element have been primarily modifications of the easy batch (pot) nonetheless so as to add fractionation to easy distillation. In London on the Belmont Distillery in Vauxhall Jean-Jaques Saint Marc patented a batch (pot) nonetheless with a rectifying head in 1824. Whereas utilized by Saint Marc for potato spirit, this idea can be a forerunner of the carter-head and the ‘Lomond’ nonetheless at Loch Lomond distillery. A notable step (see the publish script) however nonetheless within the realm of discontinuous (ie batch) distillation.

The primary real steady nonetheless was patented by Jean-Baptiste Cellier-Blumenthal in 1813. In 1828 Robert Stein, a member of the Stein-Haig distilling household would additionally patent a steady nonetheless and this may be the primary licensed steady nonetheless utilized in Scotland at Cameronbridge in 1830. Coffey would first patent his steady nonetheless in 1830 and it bore outstanding similarity to the Cellier-Blumenthal nonetheless.

Aeneas Coffey had been an Irish Inspector of Excise till his retirement in 1824. Throughout his work as an excise officer he invented the Spirit Secure an early perception to his genius. Purportedly of French start he might have had contact with the work of Cellier-Blumenthal. It was additionally thought he was conversant in one other early steady nonetheless of Cork distiller Anthony Perrier patented in 1822 in addition to the continual nonetheless of Robert Stein. Coffey’s Father, Andrew Coffey was the engineer accountable for the waterworks for the Dublin Company and reputed to be fairly ingenious. He might have additionally had an affect on Coffey’s engineering abilities. Coffey’s first nonetheless was at Dock Distillery in Dublin and licensed in 1832. This distillery was not profitable and the enterprise was quickly modified to certainly one of nonetheless manufacture. The primary Coffey nonetheless in Scotland was at Grange in 1834.

Coffey proved not to achieve success in Eire. Kerr (1946) humorously mirrored:

“between good promoting and the effeminate palates of the English, which weren’t sturdy sufficient to understand actually good whisky just like the Irish, this sort of whisky [blended] captured the English market and nonetheless holds it to an undeserved extent”.

The explanations have been probably extra nuanced. The early Coffey stills used iron pipes which gave the whisky an disagreeable flavour little question contributing to the early failure. Eire didn’t license small distillers and authorized Irish whisky was dominated by giant stills. We suspect this may have performed a job in making Coffey’s steady nonetheless much less enticing by comparability. Massive pot stills would have good throughput if not the gas effectivity of the continual nonetheless. Mockingly, it was Coffey in his function as Excise Workplace who suppressed the small illicit distillers. In 1810, he was left for lifeless having been attacked with a bayonet in the course of the ‘poitin wars’. A reward for the seize of his attackers was unsuccessful, excise officers then as now have been lower than well-liked.

In 1835, the agency Aeneas Coffey and Sons was established in Bromley within the UK. His failure in Eire contrasted by early success in Scotland (Inverkeithing and Bonnington had quickly adopted Grange) and potential gross sales of his nonetheless to rectifiers and gin distillers in all probability prompted the transfer. In 1840, Aeneas Coffey Jr established the primary patent distillery in London at Lewisham which resulted in relatively unlucky circumstances. The Secretary organized for a big launch of spirits from bond and offered the cheque for excise obligation at a Administrators assembly which didn’t include the payee’s title. The secretary crammed in his personal title, cashed the cheque and was by no means seen once more. The distillery went bankrupt and the Coffeys as soon as once more continued on as nonetheless makers.

The success of the Coffey nonetheless was actually because of the evolution of the unique design which had been little greater than an improved Cellier-Blumenthal nonetheless. By 1840, the Coffey nonetheless would have copper piping, copper plates (trays) perforated with bubble caps and the nonetheless was break up into two columns – analyzer (or stripping) column and the rectifying column. This separation of stripping and rectifying can be the muse of practically each spirit nonetheless in operation in the present day. The usage of perforated copper plates (trays) can be a marked enchancment on the Stein steady nonetheless which didn’t have contacting plates and the wash wanted to be misted to make sure good liquid / vapour mixing. Even the Haig household would set up a Coffey nonetheless.

The Cellier-Blumenthal nonetheless would even be improved by French Engineer and Dutch Sugar Dealer Armand Savalle and by French Pharmacist Louis-Charles Derosne. Savalle and Cellier-Blumenthal have been collaborators. Cellier-Blumenthal would promote his patent to Derosne who improved it and filed his personal patent whereas Savalle continued to work independently. Savalle stills might be discovered in the present day in Demerara and the French Islands of Martinique and Guadeloupe.

Whereas some un-malted grains had been utilized by highland single malt distillers the appearance of the continual nonetheless precipitated the break up the place highland batch stills have been solely single malt with the cheaper un-malted grains going to the lowland steady Coffey stills. This extra financial and extra accessible ‘grain whisky’ within the palms of entrepreneurs like John Dewar, James Chivas and William Instructor was the muse of the big success that Scotch Whisky is in the present day. Some luck performed a job as effectively. In 1863, there was the phylloxera in France which had affected most of Europe by 1879. Blended Scotch crammed the void for the effectively to do English created by shortages of claret and brandy.

The affect of uncooked materiel on the acceptance and adoption of the continual nonetheless shouldn’t be underestimated. We see the identical in rum. Demerara was the primary to develop vacuum pan sugar – the famed Demerara sugar – however the corollary of that’s vacuum pan molasses decrease in worth to muscovado molasses and Demerara was the primary of the anglophone producers to undertake the continual nonetheless. In Martinique, early restructuring of the sugar business into central factories (and thereby pan sugar) within the mid nineteenth century is the pre-cursor to town primarily based (Saint Pierre) manufacturing of Rhum Industrial with pan molasses.
In Barbados the rum business collapses after 1870, attributable to taxation and financial malaise. By the Nineties, the one estates nonetheless making rum are utilizing decrease worth pan molasses because the well-known ‘Barbados Molasses’ (made both because the prime product of the property or secondary to muscovado sugar) is simply too beneficial to be transformed into Barbados rum (which is just bought regionally presently). Barbados would see its first steady nonetheless utilizing pan molasses in 1893 to fill the void as muscovado estates went out of rum manufacturing. By the Nineteen Twenties centralisation of sugar factories (producing pan molasses) can be effectively underway and two extra steady stills would observe – one at Mount Homosexual and one other in Bridgetown.

For Jamaica in contrast, rum was the first product for a lot of estates because it was extra beneficial than Jamaica Sugar. Rum in Jamaica was constructed from cane juice (Appleton) or ‘first boil’ molasses. Jamaica wouldn’t undertake the continual nonetheless till the Sixties.

However the success of nonetheless gross sales to Scotland, the enterprise of nonetheless making slowed by the late 1860s and in 1872, Philip Coffey, son of Aeneas would switch the enterprise to his very long time foreman John Dore. Aeneas’s grandson, Aeneas H Coffey would act as guide to John Dore for a few years. By 1887, enterprise would revive and Barnard’s – ‘The Whisky Distilleries of the UK’ – printed that 12 months reported Coffey Stills in all main Scotch Whisky distilleries.

John Dore & Co Ltd would proceed as successors to Aeneas Coffey, nonetheless working from Bromley and provide Coffey Stills to the West Indies together with to Jamaica, Barbados, Guyana, St Vincent, St Lucia and Grenada. Coffey stills and their spinoff designs can be even be bought by Scottish nonetheless makers comparable to Blairs and McMillans together with to rum distillers within the West Indies. Following the final demise of British manufacturing, Blairs would stop operation in 1977 and John Dore would stop working within the early Nineteen Nineties though the commerce mark was bought and has been used subsequently on stills constructed by different copper works. McMillans continues operations until today though now it solely builds pot stills.

Publish Script:
The addition of rectification in 1824 to a batch (pot) nonetheless earlier than the event of the continual (column) is notable. In reality as early as 1813, Florentine Baglioni added a column part to a batch nonetheless for grappa. Sadly, it didn’t work effectively with the ‘vinnacia’.

Right this moment phrases comparable to ‘hybrid nonetheless’ are a supply of confusion. There is no such thing as a such factor as a hybrid nonetheless. The dichotomy just isn’t pot nonetheless v column nonetheless however batch nonetheless v steady nonetheless. All nonetheless designs fall into one of many latter two classes. The addition of fractionation or enhanced rectification to a batch nonetheless continues to be a batch nonetheless. The easy batch nonetheless depends solely on the lyne arm for rectification. Enhancing this impact doesn’t change the basic nature of the nonetheless.

A batch nonetheless will produce a altering output over time (colloquially the heads, then hearts, then tails) from a single cost (batch) that itself adjustments as it’s distilled. A steady nonetheless produces an unchanged output that varies by place (not by time) on an unchanging cost that’s fed repeatedly. Heads, hearts, tails are drawn off concurrently from totally different positions. That is the basic distinction between the 2 processes which additionally explains why the 2 can by no means make the equivalent spirit.

Early column formed stills (e.g. the columnar Pistorius nonetheless) shouldn’t be confused with a column or steady nonetheless, it was a batch nonetheless and the Savalle or Cellier Blumental stills are usually not fitted with “a pot nonetheless” simply because they’d a pot formed base/kettle – there have been in actual fact steady (or column) stills.

Half Two – The Batch Nonetheless

The myriad of nonetheless patents developed between the late 18th and mid nineteenth century is extraordinary and the few talked about partially one doesn’t do it remotely justice. This work, utilized to easy batch distillation led to the event of the continual nonetheless and the distillation world by no means seemed again.

Curiously, the in depth developments on batch distillation had little affect on the batch (pot) stills of Scotland, Eire and Cognac they usually proceed to make use of easy batch distillation, both double or triple to make whisky and cognac in the present day. To see superior batch distillation within the nineteenth and twentieth century, one should journey to the West Indies and observe rum distillation.

It’s usually claimed that the double retort nonetheless utilized in West Indies is an “Adam’s nonetheless”. No rationalization is ever provided as to why the English colonies would have bought a French nonetheless (of which solely three have been made) on the peak of the Napoleonic wars (not to mention been capable of import it). As talked about partially one, Edouard Adam (1801) made an enchancment to the easy nonetheless. He did so by including fractionation to the batch nonetheless through a collection of egg formed vessels. Adam’s work was primarily based on the work of Professor Laurent Solimani and the 2 would go on to collectively patent additional enhancements. There is no such thing as a denying the equally in precept to a pot nonetheless with a number of retorts however how the West Indies got here to make use of the double retort is relatively extra nuanced and more likely from a parallel bit of labor of Joseph Corty.

In 1818, Joseph Corty developed a double “compound” nonetheless with the second nonetheless containing exterior cooling (much like that of Pistorius). DT Shears & Sons of Bristol would purchase this design and these double stills proved to be of “such reputation” that Shears would provide “numbers of them for the colonies, however significantly Demerara” – Wray (1848). Double stills of various designs might additionally discovered within the West Indies, some notable examples embody one on the Londonderry Property in Dominica (constructed on the copper works in Barbados) and naturally the one at Port Mourant nonetheless in operation in the present day. These double stills are the forerunner of the pot/double retort in widespread use in the present day in Barbados, Jamaica, Guyana, St Lucia, Grenada amongst others. Early retort stills carried exterior cooling heads, little question the affect of the unique Corty Nonetheless.

Leonard Wray (household to the maybe higher recognized J Wray) in his seminal work – The Sensible Sugar Planter (1848) – wrote:

“However of all of the preparations, I’ve by no means recognized any to surpass the widespread nonetheless and double retorts”

This was no idle boast, Wray had in depth expertise together with of the Stills of Cellier-Blumenthal, Laugier (one other kind of double nonetheless) and Coffey.

At the moment double stills, single retort stills and double retort stills have been all in use and every of those sorts have been provided by Shears of Bristol. Enhancements would proceed – hooked up is a single retort of Blairs, produced across the flip of the century with the open cooling head changed by a contemporary condenser. Rectification heads can be added to retort stills in Barbados and Guyana however notably not Jamaica. You’ll find a rectification head on the Port Mourant double nonetheless in Guyana.

Whereas there may be little evolution within the easy batch (pot) stills of Scotland, Eire or Cognac on the size of that within the West Indies, there are some widespread enhancements which have been adopted.
In 1802, Charles Wyatt patented the appliance of steam “tubes” to distillation as an alternative of direct fired stills which avoids the burning the wash on the underside of the nonetheless. Right this moment nearly all stills in Scotland are steam heated however even right here the West Indians have been the extra progressive. The steam used within the Coffey stills was thought to destroy the esters and it will not be till 1887 earlier than Glenfiddich put in a nonetheless with steam coils. Famed Jamaican chemist HH Cousins carried out analysis in Jamaica on using steam and located it superior. This resulted in a faster widespread adoption in Jamaica of the steam coil over Scotland. The Individuals would even be faster to undertake steam distillation over direct hearth. Famously in the present day cognac should be distilled by direct hearth.

“I’m satisfied from the outcomes obtained at Shrewsbury property in Westmoreland, that every one residence commerce rums might with benefit be distilled in stills heated by a steam coil. Burnt rum ought to then be unknown. The fetish of the ‘direct hearth’ that also lingers within the minds of Scotch whiskey distillers has no foundation in any respect the place Jamaica rum is anxious, since any extreme firing leads to a most severe harm to the spirit produced”

H H Cousins, West Indian Bulletin, 1907

The earliest stills cooled the vapour by passing it by a easy worm (or coil). Initially this was solely atmospheric cooling however in 1771, German Chemist Wiegel invented the worm tub the place the worm is positioned in a bath into which chilly water is repeatedly pumped. In 1825, William Grimble invented the shell and tube condenser which changed the worm tub for cooling the distilled vapour. Barnard’s encyclopedic work on Scottish distilleries in 1887 reveals they have been broadly in use by then. Right this moment only a small minority of Scottish distillers use a worm tub and most rum producers in Anglophone Caribbean use shell and tube condensers. The shell and tube condenser proved superior as a result of it cools the vapour markedly extra slowly and this in flip has a major affect on the copper’s catalytic impact in eradicating undesirable sulphur compounds from the spirit. As vigorous molasses fermentations have a tendency to supply extra sulphury parts over different washes, the recognition and speedy adoption of the shell and tube condenser in rum is of little shock.

Visiting the area you may see the end result of this historical past with double retort stills (some with rectification heads) dominating the rum producers of the Anglophone Caribbean.

Half Three – Foursquare

The myriad of nonetheless designs from previous is overwhelming. Nostalgia makes us consider there’s something higher that has been misplaced to time whereas the truth is that a lot of what was discarded was inferior to how we distill in the present day. Improvements that didn’t ship didn’t final. Evolutions that labored grew to become the norm. Totally different spirit cultures developed although the totally different routes that labored for them and the progressive rum distillation methods might not have delivered for Scotch what they delivered for Rum.

By analyzing this temporary overview of the evolution of distillation, everybody can higher grasp what we do at Foursquare and why.

Our twin column steady nonetheless relies on that design precept of separation of the analyser and the rectifier first developed by Coffey within the 1830s. Likewise it produces a spirit that enhances relatively than competes with the spirit produced by our batch nonetheless. Nevertheless, in contrast to the basic Coffey nonetheless the nonetheless operates beneath vacuum strain. As an alternative of our wash boiling at slightly over 100°C, our wash boils at nearly 80°C with the resultant marked enchancment in spirit high quality. The excessive suspended stable content material of a molasses wash make this technological advance all of the extra rewarding.

Our two batch stills are the basic pot/double retort design as used all through the West Indies from Grenada to Jamaica. A design developed within the first half of the nineteenth century, “unsurpassed” within the phrases of Wray. Our retorts characteristic cooling heads, a characteristic first developed by Pistorius (1817) and Corty(1818) and well-liked within the West Indies within the stills constructed by Shears. It was Simon Dore, nice grandson of John Dore who instructed to us that we revive using cooling heads on retorts.

Apprenticed to John Dore have been the Carter brothers who developed the Carter-Head, an evolution of the rectification heads discovered on Shear’s double nonetheless and Saint Marc Nonetheless of 1824. Loch Lomond operates comparable rectification heads in the present day. At Foursquare, we now have our personal evolution of the Carter-Head on each of our stills. We now have integrated in these heads using ‘nano copper’ surfaces. This was developed by the CREA Analysis Centre (College of Siena) in collaboration with Inexperienced Engineering. The sensible impact of those copper surfaces is to enhance the catalytic impact of the copper. On this manner, the thermodynamic course of is unchanged however the chemical impact is improved. That’s to say, one nano copper tray has the catalytic impact of six trays however the rectification energy of a single tray.

Our older batch nonetheless has steam coils however our new batch nonetheless encompasses a twin system of steam coil and bain-marie. A bain-marie is a steam or water jacketed nonetheless developed within the sixteenth century however primarily utilized by alchemists. Right this moment, a number of craft distillers use small stills heated through a bain-marie. The dual system offers probably the most constant and even manner of heating a batch nonetheless. A smoky flavour is a pure part of a peated whisky however a smoky flavour in rum is simply dangerous distillation.

We additionally use the shell and tube condenser on our batch stills for its superiority over the older worm tube vapour cooling system. Sulphury, metallic, “petrolly” rums are usually not our type.
As a homage to all that that has been realized and integrated from the previous, the person door on our new batch (pot) nonetheless is from an precise forged as utilized by John Dore & Co Ltd.

There may be one other innovation on our newest batch nonetheless, in all probability probably the most formidable of all. However we’ll wait until its proved within the discipline earlier than revealing.

Massive due to Richard for agreeing to permit me to collate this info….Keep tuned for the Six Half collected article “Yeast In Rum (or S. Pombe Revisited)”

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