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Simply two or three or possibly 4 |
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Nicely, it’s my birthday at present. Not Whiskyfun’s, my very own. That’s ((82+26)/40,5) years, I feel, and I assumed we might style two or three fairly particular Highland Parks for the event, what do you say? We’ll even be sampling loads of Secret Orkneys or Whitlaws quickly, however not at present. Let’s attempt to begin with a little bit of aptitude, with an aperitif at 43.4% vol. The common-or-garden creator in 2002, across the early days of Whiskyfun, with some pretty latest whiskies, together with, if I recall accurately, an HP from Murray McDavid. How time flies, and so forth, and so forth, and so forth… |
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Highland Park 15 yo 1964/1979 (86.8 US proof, Averys for Corti Brothers, 75cl)  A marvellous bottling from Averys of Bristol, imported by Marshal Taylor Restricted of San Francisco for the famend Corti Brothers, ‘gourmand meals and high quality wine specialists in Sacramento since 1947’. We’ve sampled the 1963, 1968, and 1970 variations earlier than, however by no means this uncommon 1964. Color: white wine. Nostril: completely splendid, with pinpoint precision on hearth ashes, lime, and seawater. There’s an unexpectedly recent, medicinal peat, adopted by a full-on assault of tangerines—assume a whole truckload. A contact of chalk rounds out this image of pure pleasure. Mouth: firmer and even fairly highly effective, waxy, smoky, then it softens a bit with notes of fragrant white wine (Rhône valley) and honey. Overripe plums and peaches emerge, alongside a curious trace of langoustines—sure, actually. The island character is deeply pronounced, although the palate is rounder than the nostril, akin to sure rums. It’s gentler than different Corti vintages, at the least so far as reminiscence serves. End: lengthy, each spherical and perfumed, with a coastal smokiness. There’s a refined trace of candy radish within the background. Feedback: extra exact on the nostril than the palate, nevertheless it’s all completely marvellous. These Highland Parks distilled within the Nineteen Sixties had been in a league of their very own, very like the Laphroaigs or Bowmores. I’ll have to go to Corti Brothers sometime—who is aware of, there would possibly nonetheless be some outdated instances hidden behind stacks of empty crates in a cellar someplace. Who stated the long run belong to those that consider in the great thing about their goals? SGP:562 – 93 factors. |
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What we like about US proof levels is that they’re much simpler to transform than UK proof levels. You simply divide by two, and voilà, you will have the % alcohol by quantity. |
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Highland Park 1988/2023 ‘Classic Launch’ (43.8%, OB, bourbon hogsheads and European oak, 625 bottles) I am so desperate to style this latest child that I will not even trouble writing an introductory sentence (however you simply did, S.) Color: full gold. Nostril: properly, they could have made a mistake right here—certainly it is a cask from the Nineteen Sixties? It actually has that splendidly honeyed, delicately minty profile, with tiny hints of camphor and grapefruit liqueur, rounded off by moss, ferns, and the scent of a freshly opened pack of cigarettes (you already know, those docs used to favor in outdated adverts). Mild whiffs of outdated wooden, a dusty wine cellar, maybe even a contact of morels. Completely masterful, this 1968… I imply, 1988. Mouth: a bit extra strong and rustic, as one would possibly anticipate, however nonetheless magnificent, with very ripe apples, possibly a few raspberries, apricot, honey, a touch of lavender sweets, a contact of pink pepper, after which some orange marmalade and quince paste. At no level do the 43.8% ABV really feel a tad too low. End: virtually lengthy, nonetheless superbly honeyed, with just a few sultanas and a touch of orange blossom water. A hint of smoke lingers on the aftertaste. Feedback: no have to beat across the bush—that is up there with the most effective, on par with the Averys. Although this official +/- 35-year-old (which additionally occurs to be my age, ha!) feels noticeably richer. Maybe a well-timed household re-racking did the trick. SGP: 651 – 92 factors. |
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Highland Park 54 yo 1970/2024 (42%, Duncan Taylor, Rarest Assortment, Accolade, sherry oak cask, cask #3254, 158 decanters) Offered in a ‘dagger-type’ decanter, which might actually double, as soon as emptied, as a sublime vessel for airing your Pétrus or Romanée-Conti earlier than dinner. Notably, this Highland Park has spent its complete life in the identical sherry cask, with none boosting alongside the way in which. I need to say, Duncan Taylor’s manner of showcasing their treasures from outdated casks is nothing wanting spectacular. Color: full gold. Nostril: completely magical, decanter or no decanter. It jogs my memory of the official ‘John Goodwin Retirement’ launch if that rings a bell. Wonderful honey, Sauternes, winery peaches, apricot ganache, and a contact of peppermint, adopted by rosewood and sandalwood. The nostril is sort of easy, compact even, which is an amazing high quality after greater than 50 years. It additionally evokes a high quality, equally aged Grande Champagne, which is actually no unhealthy factor both. Mouth: I anticipated some wooden upfront, however no, it’s as recent as a daisy, nonetheless dripping in honey, outdated Sauternes, and aged Cognac, with extra blood oranges than anticipated, even a touch of mangoes and guavas—an surprising delight! Praline and nougat spherical it out, although it hardly wants that help. End: a touch of wooden eventually, presumably Darjeeling ‘first flush’ (if I’m not mistaken), however the oranges, mangoes, and honey rapidly reassert themselves after just a few seconds. The aftertaste is astoundingly recent and fruity. Feedback: individuals typically say those that purchase bottles like this (north of £20K) by no means truly open them. Nicely, if that’s true, they’re lacking out. What a marvel! And once more, these 42% don’t present in any respect—that is on no account a light-weight malt. Now, for the compulsory draw back (thesis and antithesis, because it had been): a decanter crafted like it will actually collect a little bit of mud, no? And in the event you depart it in its field, it loses a contact of its attract. Actually a merciless dilemma. Oh, and no matter you do, don’t drop this ‘dagger’ bottle in your foot, or worse, in your priceless Renaissance tiles within the kitchen. SGP:651 – 94 factors. |
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Proper, one final one, a bit cheaper although, simply to return again all the way down to earth after these three absolute gems from Orkney, Sacramento, and Huntly… |
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Highland Park 18 yo 2004/2022 (59.7%, Ferg & Harris, oloroso cask end, cask #4689, 285 bottles)  I do consider that is the primary time we’re sampling a malt from these new unbiased bottlers. No offence meant, however the title does sound a bit like a British royal couple, doesn’t it? Joking apart, it’s refreshing to see the distillery’s full title on an indie label once more. Color: gold. Nostril: discreet however noticeable sherry, bringing chocolate and walnut liqueur to a base that’s very a lot ‘fashionable HP’, earthy, coastal, and gently smoky. Lapsang and Assam teas make an look as properly. It’s additionally a tad sturdy. So, with water: cigars, leather-based, and cherry wooden come to the fore, with a faint contact of cured ham. Mouth (neat): daring and completely pleasant, salty, lemony, earthy, with loads of nuts, leather-based, and a whisper of mustard. There’s a moderately amusing back-and-forth between the distillate and the Oloroso end, virtually like a recreation of ping-pong. With water: a refined floral observe emerges—jasmine, violet, lavender—all very delicate. And naturally, a little bit of heather honey. End: lengthy, mineral, smoky, but additionally honeyed with a scattering of dried fruits. Chocolate with a pinch of salt lingers on the aftertaste. Feedback: this wonderful middle-aged dram has held its personal remarkably properly after three outdated legends, hats off to it, that wasn’t a simple feat. SGP:552 – 88 factors. |
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(Merci beaucoup Logan, additionally Kirsty and Martin – and cheers, Olivier!) |
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WF’s Little Duos, |
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We’re very keen on Glengoyne, which has remained “unhurried since 1833.” The story of the highway that marks the boundary between the Highlands and Lowlands of Scotland, working proper between the distillery and the warehouses, has all the time struck us. The distillery is thus within the Highlands, whereas the whisky matures within the Lowlands. It is all the time a enjoyable reality to share, although I ought to most likely examine if it is nonetheless true. In 2002, Glengoyne ran this print advert highlighting the truth that their malt was air-dried moderately than peat-smoked… Quite like an ‘outdated’ Porsche, with the 911s having given up air cooling in 1998. It all the time gave us a little bit of fun (in a good-natured manner) |
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Glengoyne 24 yo ‘White Oak’ (47.8%, OB, 1st fill bourbon and virgin oak, 2024)  ‘White oak’ is American oak, in fact. I suppose they use this designation to distinguish it from ‘sherry wooden’, although most sherry casks are additionally created from American oak. Regardless of, it’s a stunning title. I do recall Glengoyne’s very uncommon ‘Scottish oak’ bottlings— a apply few might preserve, given the shortage and twisted nature of Scottish oaks. Color: gold. Nostril: you’ll be able to actually really feel the brand new wooden right here—recent sawdust, peppermint, and citrus from the virgin oak, adopted by a beneficiant serving to of coconut and a few moderately expressive elderflowers. There’s additionally broom within the combine, with a backdrop of recent varnish, vanilla, and even perhaps a contact of rye, little question from the bourbon casks. What’s shocking is that, regardless of the wooden taking the lead (white oak certainly), it’s very pleasant, even considerably spectacular. After a couple of minutes, some mashed potato notes creep in. Mouth: related impression—wood-forward however recent and fruity, primarily on citrus. It doesn’t seem to be the barrels had been overly charred. Numerous inexperienced tea and sawdust, with that pencil shavings observe that generally reveals up. End: lengthy, leaning in the direction of closely brewed black tea with two slices of lemon as a substitute of only one. However no milk, thanks very a lot. Feedback: you actually get the sense they wished to showcase the oak itself, which is sort of uncommon. This unusualness makes scoring tough, as we lack clear references. Let’s go along with the blogger technique 3.0—‘do I prefer it or not’. Nicely, I prefer it. SGP:670 – 86 factors. |
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Quantity two will most likely be the precise reverse… |
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Glengoyne 16 yo 2007/2023 (52.5%, Asta Morris, sherry, cask #AM124, 249 bottles) Must be a fast one, particularly with a cask quantity beginning with AM (no trouble, inside joke). Color: gold, so doubtless not 1st fill. Nostril: Brussels sprouts, walnuts, bitter chocolate, tobacco, a contact of leather-based, a small handful of raisins and dates, then a touch of ras-el-hanout and an amontillado edge. It’s like stepping right into a bodega in Jerez, actually – maybe it is first fill in any case. Mouth: good, tobacco and walnut wine with a touch of orange sweets within the background. The ras-el-hanout returns, together with that leather-based and cigar observe. There’s a stunning bitterness, paying homage to one thing Italian, like Fernet-Branca. End: a lot the identical, although a lighter, extra delicate fruitiness emerges. Jogs my memory of the lemon syrup the old-timers in Alsace would add to their bitter (amer) of their beers. Feedback: I really like that very dry, virtually austere profile (which is moderately un-Belgian, however by no means thoughts). Oh, and did you discover we haven’t even talked about soccer? SGP:371 – 88 factors. |
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6 new cats from the West Coast of Alba The London Whisky Present was an opportunity to find variety of new releases from younger distilleries, most of them pushed by passionate and enthusiastic groups. |
 Isle of Raasay (Isle of Raasay Distillery) |
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Generally, this was a hanging distinction with a few outdated names that had been current too, which all of the sudden felt moderately a bit dusty and drained to me. However thank goodness, the very overwhelming majority of the massive gamers gave the impression to be in wonderful form regardless of a number of the new market figures, so please, let’s not bounce to any hasty conclusions. |
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Isle of Harris ‘The Hearach’ (46%, OB, batch 16, 2024) I had the pleasure of sampling the superb batch 15 again in August, jokingly bemoaning the truth that batch 16 had already been launched. Luckily, batch 16 is now on the tasting desk, although I am unable to assist however marvel if batch 17 has already crept onto the scene. Maybe not… Color: white wine. Nostril: it strikes me as rather less smoky this time round; however as I don’t have each batches facet by facet, I’ll depart it there. Pleasant notes of apple cake, fruity beer, tender greens (carrot purée), and freshly baked morning pastries. A stunning, moderately barley-forward nostril. Mouth: the smoke is way more outstanding right here, a peppery, vegetal smoke, fairly dry however in a really charming manner. I even get a little bit of chilli mingling with lime, giving it a slight ‘Hebridean daiquiri’ vibe, if you’ll. There’s additionally some earthiness, mineral mud, mustard, and as I famous final time, a bit ‘Fort William’ character, in the event you catch my drift. End: lengthy, decidedly salty, with only a contact of roguishness. There’s an aftertaste of roots, significantly gentian. Feedback: it’s implausible that they’ve maintained their type with out veering off in each route like so many others. SGP:462 – 87 factors. |
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Ardnahoe ‘Infinite Loch’ (50%, OB, bourbon and oloroso, 2024) That is the third launch from Ardnahoe, with the primary two being very a lot to my style. For a distillery, an ‘infinite’ loch can solely be a blessing, even on Islay, in the event you recall the droughts of the late Nineteen Sixties that compelled distilleries to close down. Right here, Ardnahoe evokes a loch infinite in its depths, although so long as they don’t begin conjuring up Ardbeg-style legends, we’re secure—no sixteen-armed freshwater octopus or Islay Nessie, fortunately! Color: pale gold. Nostril: unimaginable, I discover it very ‘West Coast’ in addition to distinctly Islay. Briefly, West of Scotland, East of Islay. There’s a barely oily, strong high quality, but with the grace and precision of a gymnast. Smoked oysters are very current, maybe some mussels too, crabs from the Sound, seaweed, adopted by bergamot, oranges, moist chalk, and clay… With water: extra moist chalk and that well-known outdated tweed jacket from the Islay Woollen Mill, one which’s seen loads of rain, storms, and vintages. Mouth (neat): that is very good. Inexperienced pepper, oranges, grapefruits, seafood, calmly oily smoke, almonds, inexperienced apples, sushi, and a touch of inexperienced olive… With water: just a few extra spices, cinnamon, turmeric, a contact of ginger, after which some Kildalton tar. End: lengthy, salty, considerably wealthy and oily, with extra smoked fish. Feedback: whereas it will possibly’t fairly match the shock of the Inaugural Launch, this primary ‘common’ model is moderately good. I’ll add that it solely wants a drop of water—finest to not drown it. SGP:557 – 88 factors. |
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Nc’nean 2020+older/2024 ‘Cask Power MN21’ (59%, OB, 5,021 bottles) It’s natural, ‘made by nature not guidelines’, sustainable – a phrase now obligatory simply all over the place – but additionally 55% ex-STRed pink wine cask, which I discover a bit at odds with the idea, and definitely not very ‘terroiry’. Then once more, it’s what’s within the glass that issues, is it not? Color: gold. Nostril: the STR affect is evident, with rose jelly, peonies, blood oranges, bubblegum, Szechuan pepper, and even some very fruity and feisty hops. Alternatively, it’s not overtly vinous in any respect, which is the great thing about these STR wine casks everybody’s utilizing today. Strawberry-vanilla ice cream. With water: as is usually the case, it returns to the barley, with scones, croissants, chamomile, and a tiny contact of roasted nuts. Mouth (neat): this is superb, full-bodied, lemony, and clearly led by the cask affect, nevertheless it’s all been expertly crafted, very a lot within the type of Dr Swan. Extremely technical, however very properly executed. Ok*****n, get out of this bottle! With water: hints of parsley and dill, then limoncello and elderflower liqueur. End: lengthy, with pepper liqueur, a sure sweetness, and triple sec. Feedback: very fashionable, superb. I discover it extra profitable than the earlier batch, however we a lot favor the pure ‘hogshead’ variations just like the one from Berry Bros, the place the superb distillate shines by way of extra. SGP:751 – 85 factors. |
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Isle of Raasay 5 yo ‘Unpeated’ (61.4%, OB, Na Sia Cask Collection, Chinkapin oak cask, cask #19/543, 2024) Ha, they don’t name this 5 years outdated, they are saying it’s 5 years younger. Intelligent. It appears the much less charming full title of Chinkapin oak is Quercus Muehlenbergii. Not fairly as horny, is it? I consider it was Glenmorangie’s Dr Invoice who first introduced Chinkapin oak to the fore some years again. Color: deep gold. Nostril: straight in with the Jaffa muffins—chocolate, sponge cake, and orange marmalade. With water: guava liqueur sidles in, joined by winery peaches and younger summer time cheese, one thing alongside the traces of Comté or Gruyère. Very nice. Mouth (neat): wealthy, thick, and liqueur-like. A great deal of saffron, pink pepper, and blood oranges. With water: an explosion of unique fruits, adopted by a crescendo of spices—chilli, fermented tofu, masala, cardamom… moderately mad, to be trustworthy. A return of chocolate lingers within the background. End: lengthy, wealthy, fruity, and loaded with… fruity spices. Feedback: it’s extra of a stylistic train, a bit like Nc’nean’s in a manner, however crazier. I think the Chinkapin was almost charred to oblivion. Spectacular stuff, good for these associates who assume all whisky tastes the identical. All of us have these associates, don’t we? SGP:761 – 85 factors. |
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Isle of Raasay 5 yo ‘Peated’ (61.9%, OB, Na Sia Cask Collection, peated Chinkapin oak cask, cask #19/74, 2024) There could also be a little bit of confusion right here, because the label reads ‘matured in a peated Chinkapin oak cask,’ which could counsel some crude flavouring with peated whisky, as an increasing number of operators are doing (in-cask mixing). However then it additionally says ‘Scottish barley malted with Highland peat,’ which suggests the precise reverse and is much extra reassuring. I’m sure it’s the latter—a correct peated whisky, not some pretend peater. Color: deep gold. Nostril: chocolate returns, together with Nutella, peanut butter, and pencil shavings. With water: orange juice, a cigarette smouldering within the ashtray, and some slices of untamed Spanish ham—correct pata negra. Mouth (neat): like working into Mike Tyson in a darkish alley at nighttime to rapidly cross the road… With water: now we’re getting someplace, it’s wealthy, thick, spicy, and definitely woody this time, as if the peat brings out the tannins. The remainder is a battle between bitter oranges and pink grapefruit. Let’s not neglect the Szechuan pepper, which isn’t far off both. Not an ‘final’ peater. End: extra unique fruits, white chocolate, and even a touch of younger bourbon. Feedback: each Raasays are moderately excessive, and I can’t fairly decide a favorite—they don’t match into any explicit mould. Very cask-driven, a bit just like the Nc’nean, which can restrict them in some methods but additionally makes them fairly enjoyable. There’s a slight Fiat Multipla vibe to them, in the event you catch my drift. SGP:665 – 85 factors. |
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Alright, I do know we’ve stated we’d have the Adnamurchans separate any longer, in ‘specialised’ periods, however they’re on the West Coast, aren’t they? |
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Ardnamurchan ‘The Midgie’ (48%, OB, 6,200 bottles, 2024) A moderately charming tribute, it appears, to these pesky little midges that may be a little bit of a nuisance when one visits Scotland at sure instances. It’s a mix of casks, together with sherry, bourbon, Sauternes, and Madeira. No marvel it’d appeal to the midges, ha! Color: pale gold. Nostril: you don’t actually get the Madeira, nor the Sauternes, and even the sherry for that matter, so I’d think about these had been second and even third-fill casks, no? The consequence, nonetheless, is impeccable. There’s a stunning smoky focaccia vibe, buttery croissants, and pleasant notes of smoked paprika (how good is that!), alongside hints of recent tyres, spent oil, and recent concrete… and maybe only a whisper of Madeira in any case. Actually, it’s spot on. Mouth: the peat comes by way of extra on the palate than on the nostril, with inexperienced pepper, creosote, tar, smoked kippers, lemon, and apple, plus oysters and some drops of Tabasco. End: lengthy and exquisite, with a barely natural contact. Suppose samphire, lemon, and a drop of seawater. Feedback: completely pleasant and really peaty. The great facet of midges, because it had been. SGP:566 – 88 factors. |
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New Bowmore 21 PX Sherry and indie associates We’ll do as we frequently do: begin with the official one, then transfer on to some unbiased companions. Smoked chocolate (The Chalk Board) |
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Bowmore 21 yo ‘Sherry Oak Cask’ (46.8%, OB, 2024)  A brand new vary, matured in bourbon and oloroso, then, ahem, completed in PX. Was that actually crucial? However in fact, we do love Bowmore, so whether or not it is PX-finished or not, it might nonetheless be superb. One does begin to marvel, although, if southern Spain can produce sufficient PX to fulfill the Scots, and each different distiller on this planet? (In fact they’ll). Color: amber. Nostril: I really feel the sherry and peat considerably cancel one another out, however with out inflicting any actual difficulty. You want to give it time, however then the figs, raisins, and dates from the PX come by way of, adopted by miso, umami, tobacco, and Maggi, main finally to a moderately charming trace of smoked ham and mashed peas. It is a enjoyable nostril, even when we ‘naturally’ favor the extra crystalline Bowmores. Mouth: actually good, with cherries and dates, although considerably anecdotal. Smoked chocolate, ham, then a rising sweet-and-savoury observe—virtually like African delicacies, which is great, by the way in which. End: medium size, extra on raisins, PX, milk chocolate, and a contact of corn syrup. A faint trace of molasses. Feedback: I really feel like I am again across the 12 months 2000, with all these finishes they had been beginning to do—Claret, Darkest, and so on. Not completely my factor, however technically it’s extremely properly executed, even when it’s a bit on the candy facet. SGP:654 – 83 factors. |
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Nicely, that is clearly the best scenario for indies with a pure type, or for actually sherry-matured ones… In truth, it’s most likely a bit unfair for the official model. |
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Bowmore 26 yo 1997/2023 (50.1%, The Whisky Blues, butt, cask #64, 317 bottles) Good heavens, by Vishnu, this one’s going to be a correct ordeal, so let’s rip the plaster off rapidly, we could? Color: gold. Nostril: smoked almonds, lapsang souchong, camphor, seawater, oysters, and seaweed. With water: damp chalk, exhaust fumes, ashes, smoked almonds, cider apples, and clams. Mouth (neat): lemon, smoked salmon, ashes, brine, inexperienced olives, oregano, and tarragon. With water: bergamot and ashes, with a faintly oily texture. End: lengthy and exact, with tiny hints of candied ginger, extra lemon, crabs, ashes, lemon marmalade, and smoked ham. Feedback: no have to say a lot, apart from that the sherry has been masterfully dealt with right here. SGP:555 – 90 factors. |
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Bowmore 20 yo 2004/2024 (54.5%, Islay Sponge, Half V, refill hogshead, 183 bottles) {That a} sponge would know its manner round a whisky as maritime as this comes as no shock (S., 1/5). Color: pale gold. Nostril: boot polish, camphor, oysters, low-tide seashore sand, seaweed, almond milk, and white asparagus… Crystal-clear and masterful. Wait, there are even faint notes of pure sponge, making this whisky completely round, maybe even pataphysical. With water: oh sure, ashes, charcoal, polish, soot (from candles), and inexperienced apples. Mouth (neat): ashes and lemon, together with whelks and winkles. There you go. It’s maybe barely underwhelming in comparison with the nostril at first. With water: no, under no circumstances. Ashes, brine, oysters, Riesling, and lower apples. End: a lot the identical. A faintly oily aftertaste (orgeat syrup). Feedback: all through, it danced between 90 and 91. However out of deference and respect for the official bottling, let’s name it… SGP:555 – 90 factors. |
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Bowmore 20 yo 2004/2024 (53.3%, WhiskyLand, refill hogshead, 171 bottles) You realize, Whisky Sponge and WhiskyLand are a lot of a muchness. However wait, was 2004 actually 20 years in the past? Color: gold. Nostril: fairly much like the Sponge, which is actually excellent news. Maybe a contact extra mineral and barely much less expressive, nevertheless it features in magnificence. Suppose sushi, small lemons, finger lime, yuzu, and Sauvignon Blanc moderately than Riesling… With water: it will get even nearer to the Sponge, to the purpose the place telling them aside turns into tough. Mouth (neat): smoked lemon and cigar ashes in your glass. With water: barely tauter than the Sponge, with hints of melon and peach, however actually, you might drink a double magnum of every and nonetheless not inform them aside for sure. Finest to skip that problem, I feel. End: very good. Matte ashes and a contact of cocoa. Feedback: a powerful WhiskyCoast… I imply, WhiskyLand. The rating is merely anecdotal. SGP:555 – 90 factors. |
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Whole respect for Bowmore, however pouring such a distillate into PX for ending, to me, is like drizzling cane syrup over ossetra caviar. Or sporting a Davy Crockett hat whereas driving your Aston Martin, to maintain inside a theme becoming the model. Anyway, see you subsequent time… |
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Just a few latest Laphroaigs |
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| Twilight at Laphroaig (WF Archive, 2015) |
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This time, we received’t have any ‘Secret Islay’, ‘Williamson’, ‘Leapfrog’ or ‘Bessie’s Finest’… Except we have now an older one, simply as an aperitif. Maybe an outdated ‘Laudable’ from DL? |
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Laudable 1985/2000 (50%, Douglas Laing, Previous Malt Cask, 303 bottles) One of many first OMCs, truly named ‘Director’s Laudable Choice’. This hails from the times when Laphroaig began getting a bit feisty with independents utilizing their title, which is, in any case, simply the title of a spot. However we received’t get into legalities, as that’s hardly our forte, and we wouldn’t do it for tuppence anyway. Color: pale white wine. Nostril: pretty, extra crystalline than the OBs of the time, leaning in the direction of lemon juice and inexperienced apple, with a extra vegetal peat, although the medicinal components catch up moderately rapidly, particularly mercurochrome and iodine tincture… With water: some bitter smoked almonds, elderflower, and a touch of outdated paper… A little bit of OBE could have began working its (very relative) magic right here. Mouth (neat): oddly candy this time, and we are able to’t assist however use ‘limoncello’ as a descriptor. Candy and barely bitter, with a great deal of ash and oysters. With water: barley syrup, brine, and lemon syrup. The brine and sweetness tussle a bit. End: moderately lengthy, changing into extra taut, medicinal, very peaty, and fairly bitter. A syrupy aftertaste once more. Feedback: unusual, it carried this shocking sweetness all through the palate. Not the simplest of vintages. SGP:676 – 86 factors. |
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Let’s bounce forward 25 years… |
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Laphroaig 18 yo (48%, OB, ex-bourbon, 2024) Right here we have now the brand new Laphroaig 18-year-old, making a return after round a decade of absence. To be trustworthy, I wasn’t significantly keen on the outdated model, which I discovered moderately overly influenced by new American oak (WF 84) and notably inferior to the 15-year-old. It was typically described as being ‘a bit plankish’. Color: white wine. Hurray, because the earlier 18 was extra golden. Nostril: straight to the hospital right here. Bandages, camphor, quite a lot of balms, iodine, recent plaster, adopted by lemon and smoked oysters. It’s not a very complicated nostril, however for me, it ticks all of the bins. Extra importantly, it buries our aperitif six ft underneath – or moderately, underneath the seashore! Mouth: good, highly effective, sharp, saline, lemony, and intensely smoky. There are some small berries, a touch of rubber, a contact of tar, and a really persistent smoky, maritime character. It step by step turns into creamier, however by no means excessively so; the white oak behaves admirably. End: lengthy, with a stunning bitterness that’s ever so barely syrupy. The citrus pushes by way of within the aftertaste, joined by recent bitter almonds. Feedback: completely to my style, nearer to the distillate than a number of the newer official Laphroaigs, and clearly superior to the outdated 18. SGP:457 – 89 factors. |
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Laphroaig 10 yo ‘Authentic Cask Power Batch 16’ (58.5%, OB, Dec 22) We’re consistently behind with these 10 C/S batches, and albeit, we’re moderately ashamed. That stated, they’ve change into fairly completely different from the older variations. Color: full gold. Nostril: richer than the 18, oilier, however with pretty notes of yellow pepper atop the peat and candied oranges. With water: I actually like this. Chalk, plaster, shoe polish, peppers, tar, recent paint, putty, carbolineum, and a contact of barley sugar… To date, nothing to complain about. Mouth (neat): extraordinarily zesty. Lemon juice, ashes, inexperienced pepper, sea water, chillies, and truffled olive oil. As they are saying, it packs fairly a punch. With water: it swims superbly, although it does change into, as soon as once more, a bit liqueur-like, a contact sweeter. We’ll point out limoncello as soon as extra. Apart from that, it’s just about spot on. End: very lengthy, with smoky, candy, and salty citrus notes. Fairly the profile. Feedback: I feel that is – or moderately, was – a wonderful batch. We’d should skip two or three to catch up over the following few months or years. SGP:557 – 88 factors. |
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Laphroaig 36 yo (40.2%, OB, The Archive Assortment, second-fill oloroso end, 400 bottles, 2024) It appears this one’s a 1985 classic, very like our early Laudable. Giving a final touch to an outdated legend like this malt feels a bit just like the beauty surgical procedure some ageing actresses endure. Naturally, one thinks of expensive Nicole Ok… or maybe Ardbeg 1965. However who’re we to guage, in any case? Color: gold, no darker than that. Nostril: the sherry stays delightfully refined, whereas the hallmark ardour fruit and mango of outdated Laphroaigs are very a lot current. There’s additionally yellow peach, adopted by outdated materials, a contact of beeswax polish, some cough drops, and a drop of gentian liqueur (Avèze, Suze). I discover this a lot nicer than I’d feared, and ultimately, it jogs my memory a bit of the Ardbeg 30 ‘Very Previous’. Certainly. And even, in some methods, the Laphroaig 40/1960. Mouth: as anticipated, it’s extra drained on the palate, although the preliminary assault continues to be first rate – that is very a lot a whisky for the nostril. A little bit of outdated wooden, natural teas, orange and cinnamon biscuits, and a few outdated walnuts, most likely from the oloroso. After that magnificent nostril, the palate is sort of anecdotal. End: quick, dry, with a touch of calmly brewed lapsang souchong tea. Feedback: it’s charming. It’s a bit like an outdated black-and-white movie or a 78rpm jazz report, one thing like classic Ellington. However actually, it’s a Laphroaig for the nostril. I consider the resemblance to that very good 40-year-old stops there. SGP:464 – 85 factors. |
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It is grand and grander Cognac Sunday at WF We’ll attempt to keep away from a vertical tasting this time, although we not often handle it, however let’s give it a go at random. Nicely, after I say ‘at random’, we’ll nonetheless give attention to the ‘good small producers’ and, as regular, avoid the mainstream. In any case, the mainstream isn’t that eager, its scouts not often make it to Château Whiskyfun, and also you actually received’t catch me going off to trace them down right here or there. Moreover, do not forget that our foremost purpose is to search out ‘malternatives’. |
 Heather honey (Domaine Apicole de Chezelles) |
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Frapin ‘Further’ (40%, OB, Grande Champagne, +/-2024) A venerable cognac, completely from their very own property, distilled on its lees. The 40% ABV and old-school presentation actually lean into the ‘retro’ aesthetic, nevertheless it’s rumoured this grand outdated bottle comprises spirits as much as forty or fifty years outdated, although nothing is explicitly acknowledged. Let’s get pleasure from it. Color: deep gold. Nostril: we’re fairly near the vine right here, with a honeyed facet and a whiff of Sémillon. The same old suspects of tinned peaches and apricots are current, adopted by sultanas and a bag of liquorice allsorts, with some cedarwood and a contact of incense rounding it off. Delicate and chic, if a tad conventional and, certainly, a bit retro. Mouth: very tender, delicate, with out a lot oomph or zing, however this smoothness is moderately charming. It’s all about raisins, peach, candy dessert wine, and a touch of tobacco. Alas, it fades a bit too rapidly, at the least for a malt fanatic. End: very quick, barely resinous with oak, and a bit irritating. Some apricots, sultanas, a contact of caramel, and some orange zests. Feedback: at the least they didn’t end it in mizunara. Severely, it’s actually good, even superb, simply… a contact irritating. SGP: 6541 – 85 factors. |
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Famille Cabanne ‘Lot no.100’ (46.2%, The Whisky Jury, a hundredth launch, Grande Champagne, 199 bottles) All rijks, I imply, all proper! (not very humorous, S.) The spirits from The Whisky Jury by no means fail to impress, and this a hundredth launch guarantees to be much more so, because it appears to carry a cognac from Cabanne that’s 100 years outdated or extra. We’re not completely certain if it spent all these years in wooden—maybe a while in demi-johns, however maybe not. Perhaps we’ll discover out, however within the meantime… Color: reddish amber. Nostril: good heavens, what a nostril! Extremely fragrant but and not using a hint of vulgarity—fairly the other—with a touch of outdated Sauternes, broom flowers, honeysuckle, and dozens of various sorts of honey. Then, lastly, a bit spoonful of apricot jam, like a diamond nestled in a golden diadem (getting carried away, am I?). Just a few extra humble pine needles spherical off the nostril. Mouth: the magic of time. There’s nonetheless firmness, with these barely resinous notes that include nice age, but additionally a cascade of dried and cooked fruits, led by sultanas and, as typically, peach liqueur and apricot jam. Magnificent notes of small dried figs, with a contact of argan oil including construction within the background. End: medium size however agency, all the time with that chic stability of pine and sultanas. Completely ripe yellow peach and a bit espresso convey up the rear with aptitude. Feedback: I used to be tempted to offer this 100-year-old an ideal 100 factors for the a hundredth anniversary, and let’s say I symbolically do, however strictly talking, we’re nearer to a really excessive… SGP: 661 – 92 factors. |
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I discover it fairly amusing that, for instance, for the value of 1 bottle of a 58 year-old, fairly dispensable family-owned outdated Speyside malt, you might deal with your self to precisely 100 (100) bottles of the 1965 we’re about to style. |
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Les Grandes Jouberteries ‘Lot 65’ (49.5%, Genuine Spirits, Fins Bois, +/-2024) We’re in Val des Vignes, and this Fins Bois is 100% ugni blanc. Color: deep gold. Nostril: magnificent, with extra give attention to fruit skins, liquorice wooden, ripe apple, and chestnut honey. There’s even a faint whiff of sea air, which is curious given we’re 100 kilometres from the ocean. Excellent, in its chic simplicity. Mouth: it actually would not really feel its fifty years. There is a fantastic rigidity right here, with oranges, apples, and peaches on the forefront, and never a single raisin in sight. As a substitute, we get these dried and preserved apricots all of us adore—oh, and in jam kind too. I additionally sense tiny saline notes mingling with liquorice and only a trace of lavender liqueur. Solely a contact, although. End: lengthy, recent, and virtually a bit malty. Cinnamon biscuits. Feedback: a dram of nice magnificence, with good rigidity and a touch of acidity akin to a high quality white wine. You possibly can virtually drink it with oysters—Arcachon, naturally. SGP:661 – 91 factors. |
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One other Fins Bois (and I promise we received’t speak about pushy outdated malts any extra at present) … |
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Marie Foucher ‘La Découverte Lot 77’ (51.74%, Malternative Belgium, Fins Bois, 396 bottles, 2024) This time we discover ourselves in Foussignac, whereas 1977 recollects none apart from Speaking Heads, and in France, Cerrone (gasp…). Color: deep gold. Nostril: a compact affair at first, all about almond croissants dripping in honey, then a splash of orange liqueur. A drop of water ought to liven issues up a bit… With Water: sure, certainly, extra layers of honey emerge, alongside roasted peanuts and cashews, praline, a touch of orange blossom, dried pear, and figs. Mouth (neat): very exact and extremely recent, brimming with citrus. Orange liqueur dominates, with a refined nod to elderflower liqueur (although the elderflower stays in examine, fortunately). With Water: a contact of oak peeks by way of, adopted by natural teas, black tea, and a faint tannic edge. End: lengthy, with varied citrus zests, whereas black tea lingers boldly within the aftertaste. Feedback: Cognac and water aren’t all the time the simplest pair, however it is a actually wonderful cognac regardless. SGP:561 – 89 factors. |
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Laurichesse ‘Les Jeux de Fruits Lot 75’ (46.8%, Malternative Belgium and Maltopedia China, Grande Champagne, 528 bottles, 2024) A intelligent play on phrases between ‘jus de fruits’ (fruit juice) and ‘jeux de fruits’ (fruit video games). Color: amber. Nostril: it’s a gradual construct, not fast, it takes its time, beginning off charmingly fruity (peaches) after which changing into way more complicated whereas staying compact. In any case, coherent – if that is smart? So, peaches, guava, orange blossom, North African pastries, then blood oranges, hints of mango, and even a contact of agricole rum within the type of J.M. – I promise you. Mouth: pencils down, sermon over. Peaches, mangos, outdated Bushmills, outdated Littlemill, outdated Lochside, outdated Balblair (S., didn’t we are saying no extra malt speak at present?). It’s as if this fruit bomb had spent a little bit of time in new American oak, although we extremely doubt it. Both manner, it’s merely unbeatable, nothing to be executed however bow down. End: the identical. Recent, with liquorice within the aftertaste. Feedback: ‘Jeux de Fruits,’ certainly! A really lovable cognac, on the very high. Just one flaw – you already know all the things from its title; no have to even style it. Simply kidding. SGP:751 – 92 factors. |
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Jean-Luc Pasquet ‘Lot 73’ (48.3%, OB for WhiskyJace, Grande Champagne, 2024) The home of J-L Pasquet continues to grace the world with its marvellous cognacs, both immediately or by way of unbiased bottlers throughout the globe who’re extremely discerning of their alternatives (finish of the advert; worth: a small glass of chilled pineau, please). Color: amber. Nostril: this one feels a contact riper than the others, leaning in the direction of overripe apple, medlar, and even some frozen service tree fruit, giving it a refined outdated Meursault vibe, which is, in fact, excessive reward. Hints of orange zest, orgeat, and almond milk observe. Mouth: much like the earlier with only a tad extra oak, which interprets into Earl Gray and chamomile. In any other case, the acquainted guava, apple, mango, liquorice, fir bud liqueur, and a drop of muscat make their look. End: moderately lengthy, a bit extra peppery, with doable hints of quinine. Orange peels and pine needles march alongside within the aftertaste. Feedback: only a tiny bit extra wooden within the aftertaste, however nonetheless a enormously wonderful cognac. SGP:651 – 90 factors. |
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Mauxion 1960/2024 (42%, OB for Ardour for Whisky, Fins Bois, 78 bottles) A small outturn, however from a grand classic, mine. Certainly, that foolish joke everybody’s all the time doing. Color: deep gold. Nostril: meadow honey, peaches in syrup, hints of rosewood, a faint contact of beeswax polish, a whisper of beech smoke, and a few beeswax. The stability is ideal, virtually deceptively easy because of its flawlessness. Mouth: teas and pink peppercorns, citrus peel, peach pores and skin, adopted by fig wine, arrack, natural teas, and mullein syrup… This lot has turned ever so barely lighter, maybe lacking a little bit of kick, however the profile stays completely fantastic. End: medium size, very a lot centered on natural teas. Verbena, raisins, hints of strawberry, with only a contact of tea and cardboard within the aftertaste. Feedback: it feels as if it’s bidding us farewell on the palate, which is moderately transferring. I feel it was captured at simply the fitting second. Nonetheless chic, like an awesome actress in her twilight years (you already know what I imply). SGP:541 – 89 factors. |
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We could attempt some actually outdated ones once more? For instance, to have a good time the strategy of autumn. |
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Tiffon ‘T.V.RES.’ (43.6%, Malternative Belgium for The Antelope Macau and Kanpaikai Japan, Grande Champagne, 2023) We might attempt to guess what ‘TV RES’ stands for, however we received’t trouble – the names Tiffon and Malternative Belgium are sufficient to go by. All proper, possibly ‘Très Vieille Réserve’? The type of phrase that not often means a lot however is all the time endearing. Color: glowing amber. Nostril: it comes throughout as calmly jammy, with sultanas, mirabelle plum and damson jam, then a fragile contact of menthol and earthy tones. A little bit of pipe tobacco, damp potting soil, prunes… I’d even dare to say there’s a touch of outdated Armagnac, however in fact, that’s inconceivable. Mouth: related emotions. Notes of outdated wooden, tobacco, a leathery high quality, darkish chocolate, menthol, countryside black tea, and liquorice wooden… It’s stunning, very completely different from the others, and maybe fairly historical. A touch of very outdated pu-ehr tea begins to emerge. End: medium in size however with a splendid earthy high quality. Chocolate, prunes, and peppermint lingering within the aftertaste. Feedback: sure, it does really feel very outdated. It’s beautifully, beautifully good, in a method fairly distinct from all of the others, maybe extra traditional. SGP:562 – 90 factors. |
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Mauxion ‘Lot 36’ (43.2%, OB for Ardour for Whisky, Borderies, 2024) Nicely, right here we’re, skipping proper over the Second World Conflict, and we discover ourselves within the Borderies – the ‘frontiers’. Eighty years in cask, adopted by just some years in a demijohn to get pleasure from a well-earned paradise. I need to say, it’s all the time a transferring expertise to style cognacs that ‘might have been sipped and not using a second thought throughout the conflict, but narrowly escaped that destiny’. Color: gold. Actually not darkish. Nostril: oh, how pretty that is! Moss, ferns, mushrooms, mint, camphor, melon, overripe apples, and people eternal honeys… do you know honey is the best-preserved natural product of all? Mouth: fairly unimaginable how recent it’s after 80 years in cask. The honeys and ripe fruits are staggeringly vibrant—apples, melons, peaches in fact—adopted by earth, tobacco, verbena, mint, anise, gentian, bergamot, a contact of mead, and even, for enjoyable, a drop of Buckfast tonic wine. Actually. End: superbly lengthy, with out the slightest trace of misplaced wooden. Roasted and caramelised pecans within the aftertaste. Feedback: astonishingly recent and exact in any case these years. The successive cellar masters who oversaw this cask did a top-notch job, except it’s all all the way down to luck. If that’s the case, hooray for luck! Let’s not neglect the final word rule everybody’s ignored: in relation to maturation, the most effective technique is usually ‘to do nothing in any respect’ as outdated managers used to say, although that’s change into hardly fashionable. Lengthy dwell the passing of time! SGP:651 – 93 factors. |
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All of it comes down to 1 final one… |
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Vallein Tercinier 1935/2024 (47%, OB for Kirsch Import, Petite Champagne) Now, this charming drop was transferred to demijohns in 1990, so technically talking, it spent 55 years in wooden therefore is a 55 years outdated. Personally, I’d take into account time in glass as properly, by no means totally sealed (for glass containers cannot be completely sealed, except you are in some type of vacuum chamber at a continuing temperature). Let’s say, it counts for roughly twenty % of the time in wooden, only a wild guess. So, 55 years + (34*0.20) offers us round 62 years, give or take. Open to debate, naturally. Color: amber (Baltic selection). Nostril: outdated waxes, beeswax polish, a classic library with cedarwood, fir, yew, and a great deal of thuja. Orchard apples, and the inside of an outdated Jag (a correct Jag, thoughts you), then we get some mint, eucalyptus, Tiger Balm, and even a whiff of outdated Ardbeg – and I’m not joking (assume early Seventies). In fact, just a few raisins sneak in too. Mouth: resins, pine needles, and a variety of liquorice wooden begin to take over a bit, which makes it clear why some very intelligent soul determined to maneuver this nectar into glass in 1990 – simply think about, that was earlier than Oasis even fashioned! The fruit has been superbly preserved, leaning extra in the direction of liqueurs, candy wines, orange liqueur, and even a contact of calvados. There’s some verbena in there as properly. End: lengthy and virtually refreshing with all that menthol, liquorice, and certainly, the verbena too. Feedback: it is a true journey throughout a number of temporal dimensions. An impressive cognac that highlights why quick-fix flavouring with any sort of factor (no names talked about) merely doesn’t lower it. The whisky world ought to catch on to that once more quickly sufficient. SGP: 661 – 92 factors. |
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Serge from cognacfun.com signing off. |
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Fast, just a few Aultmore We fairly like Aultmore, we’ll get pleasure from them step by step. Patchouli (Wiki) |
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Aultmore 9 yo (46%, James Eadie, Small Batch, first fill bourbon and refill barrels, 1119 bottles, 2024)  In line with the label, it looks like a bottling meant for the Vatican, doesn’t it? You would possibly snigger, however WF does have readers within the Vatican. Okay, one reader, and apparently a loyal one at that. Color: straw. Nostril: precisely like a younger Speysider matured in high quality American oak. Candle wax (maybe for the Vatican), vanilla, sourdough, banana pores and skin, and really recent brioche (nonetheless alive and kicking). Very charming, amen. Mouth: a bit rougher, extra natural, with apple peelings, Nescafé, recent branches, and a good quantity of yeast and vanilla sugar. Maybe not completely sure of itself. End: moderately lengthy, with some lemon showing however not fairly managing to convey order this time round. Nonetheless, there’s that Nescafé within the aftertaste and a contact of bitterness. Feedback: nice however barely off the same old James Eadie mark for me. They did have an 8 yo that was extra to my liking (WF 83). SGP:571 – 80 factors. |
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Aultmore 11 yo 2013/2024 (55.4%, Girl of the Glen, hogshead and rum cask end, cask #300445, 272 bottles) So long as the rum stays discreet… Color: white wine. Nostril: the rum isn’t going to alter the Earth’s rotation right here. Very younger malt, barley, hints of oranges and bananas, however all the things could be very, very discreet, virtually shy. Virtually paying homage to Jameson. With water: dough, grist, flour. Mouth (neat): it goes down properly, with oranges and pink grapefruits. Nothing to complain about, it’s recent, it’s easy, it does the job. With water: identical story, it does the job. A pleasant citrusy contact. End: identical. A little bit of yoghurt, then inexperienced pepper. Feedback: it’s good. SGP:551 – 81 factors. |
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Aultmore 17 yo 2007/2024 ‘Distinctive Cask’ (57.1%, Signatory Classic ‘100 Proof Version 1’, 1st fill oloroso butt) So many guarantees! Color: darker gold. Nostril: I get it. Pure oloroso and walnut wine, plus cigars and some prunes. No have to overdo it (I imply us, not the whisky). With water: water from the Guadalquivir. Simply kidding. Previous walnuts, pine bark, cocoa pods. Mouth (neat): certainly an earthy sherry, but additionally spicy, with bitter oranges and cardamom. Bitter almonds too. With water: the uncooked chocolate returns. Espresso isn’t far off however doesn’t fairly reveal itself. End: lengthy and oddly salty, like an amontillado from Sanlúcar. Feedback: joking apart, we all know that Aultmore takes sherry significantly properly, nevertheless it nonetheless must be good sherry. And it’s, there’s actually sufficient right here to have some enjoyable along with your pipette and your mineral water – however not too mineral, whereas nonetheless being sufficiently mineral. Proper. SGP:461 – 87 factors. |
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Let’s discover an outdated barrel to complete up (and no, we’re not speaking about one among our outdated associates from Glasgow or Edinburgh)… |
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Aultmore 1992/2023 (45%, Malts of Scotland, Uncommon Casks, bourbon barrel, cask #MoS 23023, 175 bottles) Such a cask certainly would not come by day-after-day. Think about, 30 years, or maybe 31. Color: pale gold. Nostril: very paying homage to that Strathmill 1988 MoS we had the opposite day. Numerous delicacy right here, natural teas, patchouli, a recent pack of bidis straight from Goa (or wherever that could be), wilted rose petals, baked apples with butter, and pears poached in candy wine… That is completely attractive, like an Impressionist panorama, displaying no indicators of fatigue at this level. Mouth: precisely the identical, solely with a bit extra firmness. Orchard apples, varied plums, a contact of grapefruit, a touch of myrtle, a little bit of wormwood and verbena, and people notes of dried flowers. A bit barley sugar brings roundness, together with even just a few drops of pear liqueur. End: not immensely lengthy, however elegant and refined. Apple and pear compote with a contact of cinnamon. Feedback: I really like this barely inconceivable, completely surprising outdated malt. Bravo, MoS, it is very good. To sip whereas studying Goethe (jawohl). SGP: 561 – 90 factors. |
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A bit bonus pour the highway… |
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Aultmore 17 yo 2006/2023 (52.3%, Maltbarn, Circles, sherry cask, 113 bottles) This one slipped by way of my fingers, however we’ll quickly set that proper. Color: gold. Nostril: nice, within the type of Macallan (oops), very, very calmly smoky, with a basaltic edge, then malt, espresso, roasted pecans, and some spent matches. This isn’t precisely Duke Ellington’s huge band. With water: aubergines and used fireworks. Nicely, you get the image. Mouth (neat): moderately oily, however with a unusual facet, mutton suet, black pepper, grilled gingerbread, and extra spent matches. With water: it returns to a extra righteous path, however that plasticine observe stays fairly outstanding. End: moderately lengthy. Artichokes, Angostura bitters… Feedback: not unhealthy in any respect, nevertheless it ‘clicks’ with me lower than the overwhelming majority of Maltbarn’s whiskies. The sherry has launched a barely disjointed and sulphury observe right here. Nicely, in my very humble opinion. SGP: 461 – 81 factors. |
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WF’s Little Duos, two |
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| The Jaguar Sort C light-weight at Le Mans in 1953 (24 Heures du Mans) |
| For instance a younger peated whisky – the peated ones, often called Ruadh Mhòr, are typically very profitable IMHO – and the newest Glenturret ‘1953 24 Hours’. Total, it have to be stated that among the many present outdated Scottish wonders, a number of the ‘decanters’ are a bit like a contemporary Lamborghini, you’d be eager to attempt it, however most likely wouldn’t need to be seen driving it. That’s not the case with this Glenturret ‘1953’, with its elegant bottle, naturally signed by homeowners Lalique. However let’s begin with a younger peated one, as Glenturret doesn’t actually have any outdated peated whiskies… |
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Ruadh Mhor 11 yo 2010/2021 (52.6%, WhiskyJace, Artwork Version, 1st fill sherry cask) Beautiful label! However peat and sherry collectively, properly, one should tread rigorously—it may be magic, or it may be… not. Color: gold. Nostril: smoky and extremely medicinal, virtually like a pharmacy. A bit like aspirin dissolved in water, adopted by a squeeze of lemon and a daring, energetic smoke. The sherry is taking part in it shy to date. With water: right here comes that long-anticipated moist chalk. Mouth (neat): pretty, sharp, citrusy, and vibrant. You’d assume it was a fino cask, if it actually was first fill. There’s a touch of mezcal right here, paying homage to the peated Glenturrets we’ve encountered earlier than. Mezcal and inexperienced apple. With water: straightforward on the water now, thoughts. The medicinal facet comes again, together with hints of a sure Islay distillery whose title begins with an L however doesn’t finish in ‘lin’. Very, very fairly, with the sherry nonetheless maintaining a low profile—or maybe it’s completely built-in. End: lengthy, exact, completely traditional. Lemon, apple, smoke, chalk, and so forth. Feedback: a pleasant younger peater. I reckon we would simply have one other peated dram earlier than grabbing a espresso, then a big glass of Perrier, adopted by a big glass of Vittel (Nestlé, the place’s the cheque?) … after which maybe the notorious ‘53’. SGP: 556 – 87 factors. |
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Ruadh Mhor 11 yo 2011/2023 (54.9%, WhiskyFacile, refill bourbon hogshead, 335 bottles) This one’s bottled by A.D. Rattray for WhiskyFacile in Italy. Obtained to like that observe on the label: ‘Distilled to be Ruadh Mhor at Glenturret Distillery’. Good, isn’t it? Color: white wine. Nostril: a bit much less peaty, a bit fruitier, primarily on inexperienced apple and equally inexperienced pear. There’s additionally a moderately pronounced inexperienced and black olive observe, which I discover completely pleasant—it’s fairly one thing, actually. With water: identical impression. A contact of damp earth creeps into the background. Mouth (neat): a lot the identical! An exquisite burst of vitality with these olives nonetheless very a lot on the fore. With water: severely, did they add olives to this? Beautiful salinity and, as Romain, the famed sommelier at Lalique (the restaurant), would possibly say, stunning verticality. End: identical once more. Tremendous exact, olives, lemon, apple, smoke. One should bow to it. Feedback: on par with the superb 2010. SGP: 565 – 87 factors. |
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Alright, as we stated, espresso, Perrier, Vittel… see you with a brand-new palate after the smoky ones. |
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Glenturret ‘1953 24 Hours Winner’ (42.3%, OB, Jaguar C-Sort seventieth Anniversary, 220 bottles, 2023) Proper, this one’s a bit tough. Regardless of the title, it isn’t from 1953, however moderately a vatting of 5 casks, with a minimal age of 32 years—so extra precisely a 32-year-old. Comprising 4 oloroso hogsheads and one PX hogshead, however no outdated solera casks in sight. Color: gold. Nostril: merely very good. Winery peaches, wildflower honey, ripe apples, papaya, and mango, with a particular nod in the direction of a 30-year-old Sauternes (like 1st Cru Classé Lafaurie Peyraguey, identical homeowners as Glenturret) earlier than shifting to tender pine, candy resins, sugared greens, and a stunning orange sauce (the sort you’d serve with duck, naturally). It’s a splendidly ‘gastronomic’ nostril, which can shock nobody. Mouth: an ideal reflection of the nostril, however with extra oomph than anticipated. Honey, wax, peaches, apricots, sultanas, and little cinnamon biscuits. That faint pine bud observe continues to be current, together with a contact of liquorice wooden. End: not overly lengthy however well-balanced by citrus and orange blossom. A pleasant honeyed aftertaste lingers. Feedback: you will have seen I’ve rigorously averted any low-cost mechanical metaphors. SGP:661 – 92 factors. |
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Fettercairn in nice numbers About twenty-five years in the past, Previous Fettercairn aka Fettercairn was scarcely out there, and its repute was possibly a wee tad mediocre. No quantity of rebranding appeared able to turning issues round. |
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Nevertheless, as they are saying, a rising tide lifts all boats, and the homeowners took full benefit of this to convey the model again into the highlight, notably due to the spirit’s daring character and the drive of Grasp Blender (and of the Universe), Richard Patterson, aka The Nostril. A lot in order that at present we’ve determined to attempt to set a world report—probably the most completely different Fettercairn whiskies reviewed in a single submit (although not essentially in a single tasting session, we’re not mad). Are you prepared? |
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Fettercairn 16 yo (46.4%, OB, 2023) The 2022 version had been moderately wonderful, so expectations are excessive. Color: gold. Nostril: that unmistakable walnut cake and candy mustard character comes by way of superbly, joined by bitter oranges and an surprising coastal contact – oysters, of all issues! Hints of tar and rubber are current, however far lower than in older releases, and in any case, that’s a part of Fettercairn’s appeal. Mouth: wealthy, honeyed, thick, and delightfully spicy, with a satisfying firmness. Chestnut cream, extra nuts, a contact of earth, a lightweight salinity, and maybe as soon as once more, a cheeky oyster. It’s actually superb, although one would possibly suspect a few of this richness comes from moderately exuberant casks. End: lengthy, turning peppery, but nonetheless salty and honeyed, with notes of honey-lemon biscuits. There’s a return of that earthy factor within the aftertaste. Feedback: for me, this has change into one of many best middle-aged official bottlings round, and there aren’t that many at this stage, in the event you ask me. Softer in comparison with the 2022 batch, with a contact extra bitterness. A fantastic begin. SGP:562 – 88 factors. |
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Fettercairn 2014/2022 ‘Warehouse 2 Batch 004’ (48.8%, OB, bourbon and Hungarian oak) These warehouse tales don’t all the time persuade, however by no means thoughts. This one comprises 6% Hungarian oak (wow!), which is actually cheaper European oak, however because it’s petraea, it’s not half unhealthy. Color: white wine. Nostril: barley sugar and the sweetness of bourbon, with vanilla cream, then a stunning floral contact of geranium and jasmine. Caraway and inexperienced walnut remind us we’re nonetheless in Fettercairn territory. Mouth: no, this is superb certainly, and I promise you might simply mistake it for Ben Nevis. It’s implausible that they’ve allowed the distillate (very daring, let’s admit) to shine by way of, regardless of using lively wooden. I feel it’s brilliantly executed – they only want packaging that feels a bit extra 2024, although. Proper, not my enterprise. End: lengthy, with notes of walnuts, candy mustard, ripe apples, clove, and a touch of juniper. Feedback: it’s higher than Batch 1 from the identical warehouse, these warehouses are one thing else! Although it nonetheless sits barely within the shadow of the magnificent 16-year-old. SGP:562 – 86 factors. |
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Fettercairn 2014/2023 ‘Warehouse 14 Batch 001’ (51.2%, OB, bourbon and Scottish beer) And right here we go, Warehouse No. 14. However what number of warehouses have they got at Fettercairn? This bottle is alleged to incorporate three sorts of Scottish beer – pale ale, darkish ale, and stout. Unimaginable. Color: white wine. Nostril: it’s sweeter, youthful in spirit, with notes of apple and quince jelly, barley, banana, even a little bit of papaya… Might or not it’s the yeasts from these Scottish beers doing their magic? With water: it tightens up a bit, however that’s not a nasty signal. A well-mannered dram, we would say. Hints of grist and limestone linger. Mouth (neat): actually superb, with extra lemony notes. Pink grapefruit and a contact of sage. With water: it’s actually superb – I’m repeating myself, however it’s! Cloved orange zest and roasted pistachios. You get the thought… End: pretty lengthy, very clear for a Fettercairn, although not and not using a little bit of texture. A return of honeyed mustard and walnuts within the aftertaste. Feedback: there’s nothing extra satisfying than watching a distillery evolve like this. Let me remind you, twenty years in the past, my associates wouldn’t contact it, by and enormous. SGP:552 – 87 factors. |
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This time, it won’t be as straightforward for the IBs… |
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Fettercairn 10 yo 2011/2021 (47.5%, Carn Mor, bourbon barrel, 1244 bottles) This one ought to be completely pure. Color: white wine. Nostril: pears and porridge, with touches of cardboard, recent wooden, and plaster. And, most notably, an entire stein of Weissbier. A touch of bitter almond and the same old mustard lurking within the background. Mouth: ultra-typical, certainly. As soon as once more, walnuts, mustard, bitter almonds, a contact of earth… Then it shifts in the direction of cider apples and lemon zest. A stunning ‘nervous’ austerity right here. End: lengthy, turning peppery. Lemon peel, pepper, then a bit extra sweetness coming by way of. Feedback: very, very near the distillate, and in that sense, moderately wild. Good bitterness. SGP:461 – 84 factors. |
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Fettercairn 2009/2022 (50.6%, Liquid Artwork, 140 bottles) Color: pale gold. Nostril: very a lot in the identical type as its predecessor, although this one carries a bit extra cask affect, lending it a contact extra roundness, nevertheless it stays austere, distinctive, with a mustardy edge and filled with inexperienced walnuts, sourdough, and a whiff of outdated newspaper. There’s additionally a touch of bitter apples within the background. With water: it turns into chalkier, earthier, in different phrases, much more Fettercairn. Mouth (neat): this time we’re edging nearer to the superb official bottlings, with a stunning physique and a salty-bitter-fruity combine, some honey, and amusing notes of white asparagus, all adopted by the signature Fettercairn pepper. With water: superb certainly, with apples, mustard, inexperienced tea, bitter almonds, and walnut wine. End: lengthy, extra mineral, although there’s a touch of olive oil. Feedback: top-notch, although it makes you marvel, which warehouse did this one come from? Simply kidding. SGP:562 – 86 factors. |
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Fettercairn 15 yo 2007/2023 (53.5%, Cadenhead, Rum Cask Matured, 240 bottles) It’s true that Cadenhead bottles some pretty rums, so that they’ve most likely received just a few empty casks available to fill with malt. Color: white wine. Nostril: that is fairly surprising, we begin with much more porridge and recent morning bread dough, alongside inexperienced walnuts and the ever-present mustard, earlier than a shocking Jamaican-like twist of tar, overripe bananas, and a contact of seawater sneaks in. With water: the unique distillate takes cost once more, so again to the walnuts and co. Mouth (neat): maybe much less exact than others, however presumably extra complicated. The walnuts are actually smoked, coated in tar, and drenched in a type of salty, honeyed molasses. With water: it’s a energetic tango, reminding me of a Martinican rum aged in an Islay cask, the reverse scenario, which additionally labored fairly properly (surprisingly). End: lengthy, extra lemony and maritime. A little bit of pepper and tar within the aftertaste. Feedback: there’s virtually a double-Fettercairn character to this at instances. Properly executed. SGP:562 – 85 factors. |
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Fettercairn 14 yo 2007/2022 (54.4%, Oxhead Whisky Firm, Singapore, amontillado hogshead, cask #201506) Color: gold. Nostril: this one leans extra in the direction of oils—rapeseed, sunflower, sesame—although the acquainted notes of cardboard, chalk, and recent ink (new e-book) are additionally again. There’s even a contact of greens, cabbage, leek… which I feel will be fairly ‘Fettercairn’ as properly. With water: the distillate’s walnuts and the amontillado’s walnuts are thick as thieves. Numerous cement and chalk too. Mouth (neat): pure Fettercairn, virtually to the purpose of seeming peaty. Loads of paprika, pepper, lemon, and as soon as once more, cardboard, mustard, black radish, mead, with a slight soapy edge. With water: apple juice emerges, with some gin-like notes that verge on soapiness (not big gin followers right here). End: lengthy, compact, and a bit eccentric. Fairly the character. The mustard and walnuts proceed to sing loudly. Feedback: one other wild one. SGP:562 – 84 factors. |
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Fettercairn 10 yo 2011/2022 (54.6%, Finest Dram, 1st fill bourbon barrel, cask #800355, 220 bottles) We fairly like these labels—you might hardly be much less flamboyant. In these AI-dominated instances, it’s a little bit of a reduction. Color: white wine. Nostril: virtually nothing at first—only a trickle of limestone water, the faintest trace of apple juice, and a contact of grapeseed oil… and that’s it. You actually couldn’t be much less exuberant, particularly for a Fettercairn. We’re into that. With water: extra physique now, with satan’s sauce, honey, and walnut cake making an look. Mouth (neat): ultra-precise. Barley, paraffin, bitter almonds, walnut oil, horseradish, and a splash of seawater. With water: good. Now we’re in Ben Nevis territory. End: identical. A stunning acidic contact, with lemon juice and Muscadet. Feedback: a younger Ben Nevis in high-precision mode. Oops, sorry, a Fettercairn. SGP:562 – 87 factors. |
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Fettercairn 12 yo 2008/2021 (52.9%, Whisky-Fässle, barrel) It’s true, we don’t all the time want a great deal of particulars and superlative adjectives on our malt labels. Color: pale white wine. Nostril: properly, that is very, very near the earlier one. A treasured modesty, with a little bit of apple, rubber, chalk, and sunflower oil. With water: wax paper and a touch of Barbour grease… Mouth (neat): completely pleasant! Varied sorts of apples, a contact of lemon, a drop of mead, tar liqueur, inexperienced pepper, and the traditional duo of inexperienced walnuts and mustard. The feel is pretty oily, as all the time. With water: sweeter this time, little agave candies, gentle pepper, and a little bit of mandarin. End: certainly, a bit oilier and sweeter, although nowhere close to what you’d name a candy end. Nicely, you get the thought. Feedback: that is simply so good. SGP:552 – 86 factors. |
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Fettercairn 16 yo 2006 (54.7%, Malt, Grain & Cane, Barbados rum cask, Cranes) A 6-month end in a Foursquare barrel. If it was one among their ‘single blends’, that shouldn’t have brought about an excessive amount of hassle for such a Fettercairn. Color: pale gold. Nostril: sure, it’s consistent with the remainder—barely overripe apples, walnuts, ink, tar, outdated paper, mustard… Briefly, all is properly, madame la marquise (because the outdated French music goes). With water: white chocolate! Might you get extra delightfully nostalgic? Mouth (neat): 87 factors. Wait, we’re going too quick. Walnuts, radish, mustard, inexperienced tea, sorrel, oil, lime… It’s simply good. With water: doesn’t want a lot water. A contact of bitter oranges. End: medium size, a bit rounder now. Almond milk and oranges, with the ever-present mustardy observe. Feedback: we might debate for hours about whether or not or to not add water. And the worth of such commentary (certainly, S.). SGP:552 – 87 factors. |
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Fettercairn 10 yo 2012/2023 (58.16%, Or Sileis, hogshead, cask #DL15976, 131 bottles) The construction of this cask quantity for Taiwan factors to a Douglas Laing origin (properly executed, Sherlock). In any case, our expensive associates over there appear much more cat-crazy than us, which hardly appears doable. Fortunate cat? Color: white wine. Nostril: again to pure Fettercairn, filled with walnuts, plaster, mustard, and little bitter apples. Amusing hints of bottarga. With water: moist chalk, clay, slate, and recent radishes. Mouth (neat): easy but magical. Inexperienced apple, walnuts, radish, earth, turmeric, and a drop of seawater. The precision of a real Swiss watch. With water: I completely adore this one. To be clear, I cherished all of the others as properly. End: whoops, wait, it turns barely candy. Sweet sugar and marmalade. Bear in mind, the satan’s all the time within the end. Feedback: jokes apart, one other wonderful younger Fettercairn. SGP:652 – 86 factors. |
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Fettercairn 12 yo 2009/2021 (57%, Whisky Peter, hogshead + first fill bourbon barrel, cask #800300) I really like these ‘beginner’ labels that seem like they had been made on an Atari or a Commodore. Not less than, that’s how they appear, and it’s completely charming. Color: white wine. Nostril: related, in fact. Cider apples, inexperienced walnuts, mustard, chalk, paraffin—you already know the tune. With water: ah, that younger Burgundy Chardonnay vibe, all concerning the limestone… Unstoppable. Mouth (neat): so good! Inexperienced apples, chalk, walnuts, beeswax, liquorice, horseradish… With water: now that is enjoyable, past grapefruit I’m additionally getting pickled samphires. Or am I dreaming? End: pretty lengthy and easily good. Lemon paraffin and chalk in all their glory. Feedback: it appears all these younger Fettercairns hover between 85 and 87 factors in my little e-book. Such consistency is uncommon, and naturally, an indication of very top quality. With all due modesty. SGP:652 – 87 factors. |
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I feel we will cease with the youthful Fettercairns, anyway they’re all fairly implausible. Let’s have a look at if we are able to discover one or two older ones to wrap up this session, which ultimately wasn’t as excessive or unconventional as we initially thought. |
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Fettercairn 22 yo (47%, OB, +/-2024) We tried the 22-year-old 4 years in the past and moderately loved it, however right here we have now a latest batch, so purely for science, we’ll give it one other go. Color: gold. Nostril: very mustardy and bitter on the nostril, as soon as once more marked by inexperienced walnuts and coal mud, adopted by peppermint and orange peel. To be trustworthy, we fairly like this. After a minute or two, aubergine and inexperienced propolis be a part of the combination. Mouth: this is not a simple whisky; there’s that pronounced bitterness once more, with loads of inexperienced pepper, bitter oranges, paprika, and that very earthy character so typical of Fettercairn. Naturally peppered mushrooms, a bit like some boletes. We find it irresistible. End: it stays considerably excessive in profile, with a great deal of inexperienced and black pepper. Feedback: as they are saying, it doesn’t take many prisoners, nevertheless it’s moderately spectacular, maybe much more so than the sooner batches. In the event that they ever made it cask energy, I reckon you’d want a firearms licence to personal a bottle. I nonetheless find it irresistible. SGP:472 – 88 factors. |
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Fettercairn 27 yo 1995/2022 (61.3%, Whisky Sponge, refill hogshead, 174 bottles) The energy of Angus’s Whisky Sponge (and of the next ranges), past the plain high quality of the spirits, was mendacity within the completely singular and inimitable nature of what we would name its ‘model surroundings’ – a robust persona and a fearless, unconstrained expression, which is a uncommon discover in such a conservative Scotland (sure, certainly). However sufficient of that non-public drivel, let’s style this one. Thoughts you, an outdated Fettercairn isn’t essentially higher than a younger one, simply saying. Color: brilliant straw. Nostril: properly, the youthful rigidity right here is changed by the sheer energy of the alcohol share. Unusually sufficient, the result’s extremely related – chalk, apple peels, lemon zest, yellow melon, shoe polish, sourdough, recent cement… With water: recent focaccia and apple juice. Admirable, however nonetheless feels ‘younger’. Mouth (neat): virtually oily, but filled with lemon essence and a riesling focus, if such a factor existed. Be careful for the alcohol! With water: it turns into gentler, however extra complicated, with pastry notes, roasted pistachios, nougat, lemon tarte, drops of verbena liqueur and, above all, genepy, putty, and orange marzipan. You’d virtually assume this drop got here not from Scotland however from, say, Salzburg. End: pretty size, very elegant. Feedback: this Fettercairn calls for your full consideration, nevertheless it’s properly value it. Very good, given the classic. SGP:652 – 89 factors. |
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One final one, and a lot for the Fettercairn world report – we’ve bitten off greater than we are able to chew, as soon as once more. |
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Fettercairn 31 yo 1990/2022 (42%, Skene, American oak hogshead, cask #648086) Skene could also be a moderately discreet home, however they’ve been releasing some exceptional bottlings, with a pleasantly old-school vibe, which is more and more a advantage in today of generally considerably ‘pretend’ and, above all, conformist modernity. Color: straw. Nostril: the place have these outdated Fettercairns been hiding? Bursting with superb whiffs of farmhouse cider, pure Riesling, Chardonnay from Jura and Savoie, and even a contact of Petite Arvine from Valais whereas we’re at it. It’s not typically we discover ourselves this near wine, however keep in mind the rule of Leerdam cheese – the much less there’s, the extra there’s (*). Mouth: magnificent white wine. I’m barely joking. Really, I’m not joking in any respect. Beautiful recent oak, with the tiniest trace of coconut and the best vanilla, adopted by limestone and a myriad of delicate flowers and herbs – borage, as an illustration. End: not overly lengthy, however merely good. Tangerines and chocolate mint proper on the finish. Feedback: the place on earth did this come from? Even the ABV is spot on. In case you discover a bottle, you already know what to do. SGP:561 – 91 factors. |
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Simply to grasp how far we have come, in 2003 I tasted the brand-new Fettercairn 12 yo ‘1824’ (40%, OB). I did not write a tasting observe, however I gave it a modest rating of 70/100. It is true that the actual fact 1824 was additionally the 12 months of Macallan, and that this was beginning to be marketed, actually made me query whether or not it was acceptable to make use of it for Fettercairn. However that was 21 years in the past, and these days, we certainly would not make such a fuss about it. |
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(*) The extra cheese there’s, the extra holes there are, and the extra holes there are, the much less cheese there’s. This could possibly be rephrased as: ‘the much less wine is added to a malt, the extra that malt can showcase the qualities of a high quality wine, and the extra wine there’s (finishes, and so on.), the much less that is the case. Anyway, let’s transfer on. |
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WF’s Little Duos, at present a number of the craziest latest Lagavulins It is all the time a pleasure to style Lagavulin, even when simply two at a time. We’ll begin with the oldest one, because it has the bottom alcohol content material, by far. |
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Lagavulin 31 yo 1991/2023 (45.6%, OB, Cask of Distinction, chosen by Sebastian Jaeger for GourmetPool, fresh-charred American oak hogshead, cask #6498, 213 bottles) A cask destined for Germany, although these bottles have certainly crossed many borders by now. No have to introduce the 1991s, however what’s significantly intriguing right here is the cask, removed from the hefty sherry varieties. Color: pale white wine (remarkably). Nostril: ah, we’ve landed squarely within the coronary heart of Lagavulin. It’s like being locked contained in the Port Ellen Maltings for three days. I discover heaps of hot and cold ashes, olives and capers, complete packets of nori, curries, roasted pistachios, dried kelp on the seashore, miso, and even mussels in white wine and rollmops. There’s a distinctively intense shochu-like high quality right here, completely mad and virtually completely devoid of fruit right here. Mouth: adios, bye-bye, auf Wiedersehen. It’s as if this whisky has been matured in pure ashes (fill a jar with ashes, add new-make, wait). Solely after a second do the olives, smoked fish, Far Japanese soups, seawater, and the like come by way of. The precision and austere grandeur are extraordinary. Proper then, let’s cool down. End: large mezcal. Nicely, truly, large Lagavulin, with a contact of fir wooden. Feedback: earlier than this regenerated hogshead, might this child have secretly frolicked maturing in stone jars? You’d be hard-pressed to get nearer to the pure distillate than this, and at over thirty years of age, no much less. SGP:377 – 94 factors. |
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Mr. Iain ‘Pinkie’ McArthur, the ground is yours… |
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Lagavulin 18 yo ‘Iain’s Farewell Dram’ (58.7%, OB, 2nd fill manzanilla, 212 bottles, 2023) Pinkie’s retirement was akin to dismantling the stays of Dunyvaig or flattening the Paps of Jura—it’s left fairly a mark. The selection of a 2nd fill manzanilla cask reveals a stage of mental brilliance that surpasses even that of Sharon Stone (although the resemblance stops there). Color: gold. Nostril: that is big. There’s a pronounced ‘sulphurous’ high quality that isn’t truly sulphur, in the event you catch my drift. A freshly extinguished seashore hearth, white truffles from Piedmont, inexperienced walnuts (thanks, manzanilla), wild mushrooms, whiffs of pickles in brine, and heaps of seaweed. Once more, the fruit is extremely discreet. With water: no modifications in any way. Mouth (neat): for a 2nd fill, there’s nonetheless various manzanilla affect, which is simply as properly—we’re followers of manzanilla, particularly when En Rama. So, seawater, chalk, walnuts, mustard, radishes, oysters, and an avalanche of ashes. Dazzling, although this type does are inclined to divide opinions. Shopping for a bottle doesn’t precisely entitle you to grasp this liquid, does it? With water: once more, little change. Maybe much more smoked oysters and a real punch of salt, or extra precisely, salinity. End: monstrously lengthy. Salt, olives, vinegar, oysters, mustard, cigar ash, ‘sulphur’, and walnuts. Dry as a bone, with completely zero sweetness—there’s extra sugar in a bit of granite. Feedback: what number of instances can one retire in a profession on Islay? SGP:377 – 94 factors. |
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It is a tie. I’ve to say, we noticed it coming. I consider these two bottles alone greater than make up for the very barely questionable tequila flavourings imposed upon this magical whisky that’s Lagavulin. Simply saying. |
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Two little indie Knockdhu In different phrases, some AnCnoc. It’s true that you simply don’t come throughout them too typically today, however we nonetheless make a degree of sampling whiskies from all of the distilleries, for the trigger. On high of that, these two little Knockdhus are going to be ex-hogshead, so not “wineskies” like the various you see round today (although a few of them are literally fairly good). |
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Knockdhu 17 yo 2006/2023 (46%, Hunter Laing, Hepburn’s Alternative, refill hogshead, 360 bottles) Color: pale white wine. Nostril: smoky proper from the beginning! A whiff of carbon paper (do not forget that?) and ashes, even a little bit of mustard, adopted by sturdy fermentative notes—assume baker’s yeast and a white beer from a fledgling craft brewery. There’s a touch of damp plaster too. Altogether, it’s moderately singular, austere, and intensely near the grain. Mouth: it feels younger, however there’s an interesting simplicity, with uncooked components like yeast and malted barley taking centre stage. Inexperienced apples come by way of subsequent, with lemon and rhubarb stretching the entire thing taut like a bow. Only a faint contact of floral honey. End: pretty lengthy, with mustard making a return, accompanied by recent bread and under-ripe apples. Feedback: this wild, pure type received’t be everybody’s cup of tea, that’s for certain. The cask appears to have been little greater than a vessel right here, and that’s most likely for the most effective, although you would possibly marvel if some wouldn’t have most well-liked it had spent three months in a Port or Cabernet Sauvignon seasoned cask. Hmm. SGP: 362 – 85 factors. |
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Knockdhu 10 yo 2013/2024 (52.3%, The Maltman, hogshead, cask #128, 295 bottles) This one could be much more ‘au naturel’, although you wouldn’t guess that from its color… Color: deep yellow gold. Nostril: toasted white bread, malt, just a few roots, scones, and hints of turnip and celery. It’s austere, for certain not overly exuberant, however that’s fairly interesting. With water: it wakes up, bringing in notes of candle wax and mandarin peel. Mouth (neat): way more presence on the palate than on the nostril, with an actual burst of citrus, plus touches of horseradish, radish, and mustard once more… With water: not many modifications. There’s additionally a touch of backyard cress. End: good and lengthy, with a saline contact, extra of these rooty notes, and radishes of all types within the aftertaste. Feedback: I don’t see why this might rating any in another way. An excellent Knockdhu, broad and pure. The mandarin and radish duo works beautifully, not inconceivable in any respect. SGP: 451 – 85 factors. |
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Summer season is not over but, |
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| Naval battle, oil on canvas (WF Assortment) |
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Botran 15 yo ‘Reserva Especial’ (40%, OB, Guatemala, +/-2023)  A point out of the ‘sistema solera’ is never signal, significantly when contemplating the precise age of this dram, particularly at €29-35. Color: darkish gold. Nostril: closely stewed fruits, equivalent to pear and pineapple, with caramel, coconut, sweet sugar, and a contact of espresso liqueur… To be honest, it’s not half unhealthy and doesn’t reek of syrup like so many others. Mouth: candy, however not overly so, barely tender with a robust observe of powdered espresso and pineapple liqueur. The syrupy texture makes it laborious to understand with out ice, although, actually, we’ve had worse. End: of medium size, leaning in the direction of molasses and ‘low-cost’ maple syrup, with tinned pineapple and corn syrup. Feedback: actually, it’s drinkable; simply wants some ice. It’s not completely essential to drown it in Coke or different cheerful mixers, in my humble opinion. SGP:530 – 72 factors. |
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Chairman’s Reserve ‘Authentic’ (40%, OB, St. Lucia, +/-2023) We’re extra accustomed to their very good single casks that sometimes pop up, so let’s examine how this entry-level providing fares… Color: full gold. Nostril: moderately good! Very a lot on fermented sugarcane, with whiffs of petrol, engine oil, recent tar, and liquorice. The flavours do compensate for the low ABV, we’d say. Mouth: very good certainly! Fairly a little bit of saline and tarry depth, even touches of olives, anchovies, salted liquorice, a touch of recent rubber (bracelets), and vesou… That is actually higher than one other entry-level Chairman’s Reserve that wasn’t ‘Authentic’ just a few years again. End: surprisingly lengthy, with brine and liquorice lingering. Feedback: that is top-notch for a really well-considered worth. Beautiful type, and for as soon as, we received’t even complain concerning the low alcohol content material. SGP:552 – 85 factors. |
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Undoubtedly, some nice surprises at present… |
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Pusser’s Rum ‘Gunpowder Proof’ (54.5%, OB, Guyana, +/-2023) Marketed as being at ‘Gunpowder Proof,’ however I assumed that was presupposed to be round 56.9 to 57.1%, or 100° proof UK, wasn’t it? In addition they point out ‘admiralty energy,’ however ‘admirability energy’ would maybe be extra becoming (although that’s one other weak pun, S.). That is certainly a Demerara, though it’s bottled within the British Virgin Islands—no, nothing to do with tax shenanigans. Color: orange gold. Nostril: parsley, coriander, molasses, tar, raisins, and a refined ‘saucy’ observe, which appears fairly intentional and stylistic. Plum juice, umeshu… With water: it turns into extra earthy, which we moderately like. Mouth (neat): it’s good! Liquorice, caramel, a touch of salt, a contact of tar, molasses, and a few meaty juice—maybe soy sauce. With water: the salty liquorice and meaty juice proceed, with just a few drops of seawater added to the combination. End: lengthy, wealthy, and getting sweeter at this stage, with that well-known prune juice making an look. Feedback: it actually does the job, and much more so at €35. Very El Dorado-like, although it doesn’t fairly have the magnificence of Chairman’s Vat—no, wait, Reserve. SGP: 641 – 80 factors. |
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Hooded Skunk Rum (58%, OB, Denmark, +/-2023) I’m not completely certain what that is, and albeit, I’d moderately not know, even when Danish sugarcane plantations are well-known the world over. Proper, they don’t have any colonies within the tropics, do they? Color: gold. Nostril: it’s amusing, with notes of bubblegum and, certainly, recent cane juice. There’s additionally hay, strawberries, and roasted tea, one thing like Japanese hojicha. Puffed rice too. With water: a contact of earthy strawberry and mezcal comes by way of. Mouth (neat): properly, it’s not unhealthy in any respect, very completely different, very ‘meta-spirits’, with gentian, mezcal, celery eau-de-vie, and sure, even the anticipated aquavit… It’s actually enjoyable, and for now, I’m having fun with it. With water: sure, it’s quirky and attractive. Not the sugary horror you generally encounter ‘elsewhere on this route’. End: lengthy, and even smoky. Beechwood smoke, anchovies, liquorice, and overripe strawberries. Feedback: what on earth are we tasting right here, S.? It’s enjoyable! SGP: 563 – 80 factors. |
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Secret Cuban 12 yo 2009/2022 (59%, Dràm Mor, bourbon barrel, cask #139, 227 bottles) One all the time goals of Sancti Spiritus or Santiago, but everybody stays tight-lipped about these secret Cubans. Color: gold. Nostril: it’s very pretty, extremely refined, with not a touch of vulgarity, that includes recent cane juice and probably the most elegant vanilla. There’s a tiny contact of petrol, maybe indicating just a few drops of ex-pot nonetheless aguardiente within the combine. With water: it turns brisker, with notes of agricultural oils (rapeseed, sunflower) and crushed almonds. And that cane juice. Mouth (neat): properly, right here we go, I’m sorry to say that is the most effective younger Cuban rum I’ve tasted in a really, very very long time. Lovely oranges, cane, hints of anise, biscuit dough, with one other contact of varnish and petrol, and a splash of orange blossom water… With water: even higher, changing into splendidly delicate. Some overripe fruits and a touch of mastic. End: not so long as a Fidel speech (ha) however this barely salty observe is, properly, fairly horny. Feedback: there are some a lot older indie Cubans round in the intervening time, and so they’re superb certainly, however so far as younger island rums go, this one is great. I can’t wait to return to Cuba. Proper, let’s bump it up by two factors. SGP: 562 – 87 factors. |
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Foursquare 19 yo 2002/2022 (56%, Silver Seal) I like the outdated ships that Silver Seal provides to its labels. It’s true they performed a completely monumental function in commerce between Europe and the broader Caribbean, contributing to the event of sugarcane. Color: white wine. Nostril: wait, is that this pot nonetheless? Overripe bananas, Riesling, kerosene, olives… With water: by Jove! A myriad of small herbs, smoked or in any other case. Dill, wild carrots, wild garlic, and so forth. Mouth (neat): sure, pure pot nonetheless, little question about it (or I’ll eat my hat). It’s magnificent, with earthy lemon and olive oil smoked over cypress wooden. Nicely, kind of that. With water: smoked lemon, if such a factor existed. End: lengthy, lemony, salty, and actually complicated, with a barely liquoricy and mentholated aftertaste. Feedback: it’s clearly not my enterprise, however I do hope they’re filling a great deal of Foursquare pure pot nonetheless casks in the intervening time. Single blends had been an enthralling thought, however like at Ben Nevis, the true deal is the pot nonetheless. That’s my humble private opinion, anyway. SGP: 562 – 91 factors. |
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Come on, one thing loopy… |
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TDL 2002/2024 (55.7%, The Whisky Jury for The Antelope, Macau, Trinidad, The Many Faces of Rum, cask #10, 238 bottles) We put together ourselves, stretch a bit, have some espresso adopted by Perrier… proper, we’re prepared. Color: pure gold. Nostril: one can’t take care of these people and their spirits anymore. The nostril is moderately magical, very pure, with a robust give attention to small pink banana, winery peach, and guava that is aware of how you can behave. It’s insanely exact and pure. With water: as the kids say, it’s too stunning. Polishes, ripe tropical fruits… It fairly merely flooring you. Mouth (neat): it’s detestable, it’s so good. It must be banned. Pink grapefruit, white Irouléguy from Arretxea, and there you will have it. With water: it’s so good, we cease, we surrender. End: as I stated, we surrender. Fir wooden and pine nuts within the aftertaste. Feedback: none. Web site on strike. We’re French, in any case. SGP:651 – 93 factors. |
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T.D.L. 13 yo 2009/2023 (62.8%, The Colors of Rum, Trinidad, barrel, cask #107, 256 bottles) Color: deep gold. Nostril: incense, sandalwood, orange cake, the jury’s nonetheless out. Thoughts you, almost 63% vol. With water: shoe polish, ski wax (I’m conscious it’s not the season), almond oil. Mouth (neat): name me Suzy. Varnish and preserved apricot juice. With water: proper, it is a less complicated model of TDL, actually top-notch, although a contact extra rustic. But it surely’s received ardour fruit! End: certainly. Feedback: one other good drop, however the 2002 was one thing out of this world. A contact of a dying seat impact, maybe. SGP:641 – 87 factors. |
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Earlier entries
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