Thursday, November 14, 2024
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Cévennes Journey: Day 5–Saint Geniez d’Olt to Sainte Enimie


As a lot of you already know, I used to be as soon as a cycle tour information in Europe (which was the genesis of this weblog). The corporate the place I labored for all these years, Blue Marble Journey, has formed my life in numerous methods however sadly not exists. Just a few of weeks in the past, I used to be again in France, using a type of Blue Marble routes, however not as a information; this time I used to be using solo.

Whereas the primary few days of the journey had been unbelievable, right now marks the primary of three successive days that may outline the journey. The day features a little bit of climbing and culminates with a descent into the Gorges du Tarn, what many individuals have described as “France’s Grand Canyon”.

The day contains two vital (at the least for my outdated, fats physique) climbs, the primary beginning simply previous the “city” (don’t blink!) of Pomayrols and lasting nearly a full 5 miles. The second is way extra daunting, it begins proper earlier than La Canourgue, the midway level of the experience and my deliberate lunch cease. Whereas it’s only “steep” for a couple of mile, the climb lasts for each little bit of 9 miles and represents a couple of yr of elevation acquire in Houston.

On the prime of the climb is the Causse de Sauveterre, one in every of a number of Causses on this a part of France. The causses are “haunting, windswept, desolate plateaux, used for sheep farming when they’re used for something, however most frequently completely wild.”

All of the climbing has an enormous payoff, the final eight kilometers (5 miles) is a reasonably unbelievable descent into the Gorges du Tarn, one of many extra spectacular pure areas of France. Nestled on the backside of the Gorges is right now’s vacation spot, the tiny city of Sainte Enimie. If the pure setting weren’t sufficient, the city has a spectacular medieval middle, not at all “massive” however splendidly preserved.

Regardless of all my needs on the contrary, it’s one other chilly (at the least for my now Texas-accustomed physique) morning: 10°C (50°F). Yowza.

Whereas the experience lacked many actual “cities” the route was dotted with a number of farmhouses.

I attempted to eat salads for lunch on the journey, however I couldn’t go on the meal of the day in La Camourgue: a pork chop “à la diable” (devil-style). The waitress warned me that it was “très piquant” (very spicy). Bless her coronary heart. I’ve had ketchup that was spicier than this.

The pictures don’t do it justice; the Gorges du Tarn is breathtaking.

Tiny Saint-Chely-du-Tarn which I’ll go to tomorrow.

The Lot River, lazily snaking its method by way of Sainte Enimie.

It’s not at all “large” however I wandered the medieval part of Sainte Enimie for some time.

The thirteenth(?) Century church in Sainte Enimie.

I like doorways.

Dinner right here typically means duck. I fortunately oblige.

That’s all for this leg of the journey, again once more subsequent week with extra!

In regards to the drunken bike owner

I’ve been an occasional biking tour information in Europe for the previous 20 years, visiting many of the wine areas of France. Via this “job” I developed a love for wine and the tales that usually accompany the pulling of a cork. I stay in Houston with my pretty spouse and two fantastic sons.

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