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| Hello, that is certainly one of our (nearly) day by day tastings. Santé! |
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November 22, 2024
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4 Macallan, possibly not
(to Mariah Carey)
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| Colmar (Alsace) Christmas market. |
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The indicators don’t lie—Christmas is already on its manner. Our American buddies are dusting off Mariah Carey, whereas their British allies are doing the identical with the late, nice Shane MacGowan and Kirsty MacColl. In the meantime, the inimitable French railway staff are saying their conventional strikes, as they do yearly presently. Over in Alsace, cities—most notably our neighbour Colmar, which has primarily become the area’s Disneyland in recent times—are decking themselves out with hundreds of thousands of fairy lights in probably the most inconceivable colors, which can drain the facility output of a medium-sized nuclear energy station. Sufficient to go away you with sore eyes for 5 days straight. Be sure you pack your sun shades if you happen to’re coming this fashion.
As for us, we’re sampling one other two or three Macallans.
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An Iconic Speyside 13 yo 2011/2024 (53.9%, Duncan Taylor for Wine4you, octave, cask #2945209, 43 bottles) 
9 months in an octave. Now then, calling one thing ‘iconic’ is at all times a bit provocative, isn’t it? If we’re sincere, the phrase suggests Macallan – although in some way, I doubt that’s the case right here. And if it isn’t Macallan, can it actually be iconic? However let’s not get too caught up in semantics. In any case, the phrase ‘iconic’ doesn’t essentially suggest high quality, does it? In French, it would simply imply ‘A Notably Consultant Speyside.’ Both manner, we digress. Lets? Color: amber. Nostril: a tough one to pin down, this. We’re continually swinging between Macallan and Glenfarclas because of a moderately daring sherry affect. Might or not it’s one other distillery? Probably, however then, would it not nonetheless qualify as ‘iconic’? Notes of raisins, pipe tobacco, a faint whiff of flintstone, after which almonds and stewed cherries. There are additionally vivid puffs of orange jam being made. With water: leans barely in direction of younger balsamic and Pinot Noir, however doesn’t fairly attain the untidy vicar territory (you realize what I imply). Mouth (neat): cherries once more, kirsch, a superb dose of pepper, loads of bitter almonds, leather-based, and tobacco, earlier than it turns in direction of closely steeped black tea and people inevitable pencil shavings – nearly definitely the octave at work. With water: cherry kirsch chocolate. End: lengthy, drier, and really peppery. Feedback: it’s superb however a contact tough across the edges, with the sherry feeling a tad disjointed. Nonetheless, there’s quite a bit to take pleasure in right here, however these octaves are as tough to deal with as Components 1 vehicles, aren’t they?
SGP:361 – 84 factors. |
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Macallan 19 yo 2005/2024 ‘Speymalt’ (56.5%, Gordon & MacPhail for Wine4you, cask #22606309) 
A sister cask to the wonderful latest Speymalt 2005 for La Maison du Whisky (#22606305, WF 89), so possible very related… Color: wealthy gold. Nostril: softer, rounder, and extra instantly inviting than the ‘iconic’ Speyside, maybe extra suited to the lounge than the countryside. Roasted chestnuts, mild pipe tobacco, a touch of floral liqueur (mullein), adopted by delicate notes of beeswax and propolis. Then come the orangettes – candied orange zest dipped in darkish chocolate – a correct indulgence. With water: touches of mint, camphor, and eucalyptus add a refreshing elevate. Mouth (neat): black pepper takes cost immediately, quickly joined by caramelised pecans and roasted hazelnuts. One other sinful deal with. With water: again to candied oranges, alongside fir honey and some drops of peppermint liqueur. End: lengthy, with intensely steeped black tea asserting itself as soon as once more, accompanied by its trusty accomplice, pepper. Cocoa and mint linger within the aftertaste. Feedback: identical to its sister cask, there’s a definite Amontillado-like high quality right here. Unsurprisingly, it’s an enormous hit. Not a lot separates this one from the latest LMDW launch.
SGP:561 – 89 factors. |
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Since we’ve talked about La Maison du Whisky…
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Secret Speyside 18 yo 2005/2024 (57.6%, Signatory Classic, LMDW Foundations, 1st fill sherry butt, cask #DRU 17/A106#45, 575 bottles)
One wonders who was tasked with concocting the moderately labyrinthine cask quantity right here. Fortunately, the LMDW web site gives loads of breadcrumbs pointing to this child’s origins (Craigellachie, 1824, first official 18-year-old in 1984, and many others.), sparing us the guessing recreation. Color: mahogany. Nostril: completely traditional, brimming with toasted bread, prunes, sultanas, milk chocolate, and its a lot darker sibling, plus very outdated cream sherry (VORS), molasses, and a contact of broth. Quintessential sherried Speyside, actually. Proper, iconic. With water: an outdated aviator’s leather-based jacket, wafts of pipe tobacco, and a pleasant return of the prunes. Mouth (neat): the Christmas cake strikes once more! A cascade of dates, figs, dried bananas, and pears, alongside hints of kirsch and mid-aged Armagnac. You get the drift. With water: right here comes the leather-based once more, joined by beef jerky, black pepper, darkish tobacco (Gauloise, no much less), and probably the most intense darkish chocolate. That brooding richness is simply splendid. End: lengthy, dry, nonetheless peppery, with a faint foxiness akin to that of a venerable outdated Burgundy. The oak additionally makes a stronger exhibiting now. Feedback: proper up there with the perfect Speymalts. Identical classic, you say? No shock, actually.
SGP: 561 – 89 factors. |
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Let’s dig by our archives for a fourth and remaining one…
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Speyside 28 yo 1988 (58.4%, Lotus Lord, Taiwan, pre-used sherry casks, 5,000 bottles, +/-2017) 
There’s a hearsay floating about that this single malt might be M., although nothing’s sure, and deciphering Chinese language textual content generally is a problem – Google’s makes an attempt are significantly woeful. By the way in which, this ‘Lotus Lord’ has nothing in any way to do with Colin Chapman. Make of that what you’ll. Color: pink mahogany. Nostril: let’s admit it, this can be a cracking nostril – compact, balanced, and laden with dried dates and marzipan (at all times a favorite). It additionally carries a high quality outdated Cognac vibe, with immense class within the measured cascade of subtler notes that follows: English cigarettes, figs, heather honey, broom, jasmine… Tremendously refined, and greater than believable as M. With water: chestnut cream and maquis honey – Corsican honey, if you happen to want. Mouth (neat): begins off with a prickle of pepper, sulphur, and clove, then segues into uncommon black teas, wealthy darkish chocolate, and brown tobacco mingled with floral and fruity jellies – rose, quince… With water: softens fantastically, regardless of fears it may need turned dry or tannic. There’s an interaction of outdated candy wines and extra darkish chocolate – a timelessly splendid pairing. End: lengthy, completely peppery, with fig jam, orange marmalade, liquorice, darkish chocolate, and a whisper of chilli. Feedback: loves a drop of water, which reins it in splendidly at any time when it veers off observe. A dramatic illustration of why including water to whisky is crucial (I by no means skip it with something over 50% ABV), although every to their very own. A really marvellous malt, however actually undecided it’s M…
SGP: 562 – 91 factors. |
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