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By Richard Thomas
Score: C
(Credit score: Lux Row)
Port and bourbon are a type of pairings that, when proper, might be an absolute residence run. One thing that elevates the sweetness whereas controlling that sweetness by way of tannin and oak, being a simple drinker with out veering into dessert whiskey. As a rule, nonetheless, the 2 are used considerably haphazardly – perhaps the ending is simply too brief or too lengthy, or the bourbon isn’t robust sufficient to punch by way of what is usually a heavy fask affect.
Within the Ezra Brooks 99 Port Cask Completed Bourbon, I see intent to stability the 2 flavors and have them be greater than two ships within the glass. Having had quite a few Ezra Brooks releases prior to now, I might by no means characterize the model as low on taste. Whether or not I like that taste is a special measure, however it’s by no means missing.
This pour, although, feels…restrained? Maybe too restrained. The flavors are good. They’re so tenuous, from nostril to complete, that I wrestle to establish them. After they do come by way of, the delicacy is obvious. Lux Row took Ezra Brooks bourbon and completed it in port casks for 18 months. 18 months is hardly a flash end: it’s meant to both impart numerous port character, or they’re coping with exhausted port casks that want 18 months to do what recent ones would do in 3-6. The whiskey does have a delicate garnet hue, demonstrating sufficient port presence to nonetheless give shade, so I’m inclined to provide them the good thing about the doubt and say they wished numerous port character.
Upon first sniff and sip, all that got here to me have been gentle fruity notes – we’re speaking grape flesh, the place the fruit is so excessive in water content material that the flavour itself is barely noticeable. You realize it’s a fruit from the sweetness and tartness, however it’s the distinction between recent grapes and grape juice. Similar supply, however you wouldn’t confuse one for the opposite.
After 18 months of port affect and regardless of the average coloring, this falls far in need of the flavour explosion I’m anticipating. Nothing about it tastes unhealthy – it tastes like the flavour has been leached out, leaving the anticipated oak and warmth at 99 proof and a number of other years previous with out the flavors that ostensibly Lux Row labored so laborious to construct.
On a aspect be aware, I believe it unavoidable to check this to Angel’s Envy. One other port-finished bourbon (the primary, arguably), that to me tastes hotter and fewer port-y than I’d prefer it to. At comparable proofs and costs, the Ezra Brooks is a good various. It doesn’t do sufficient to distinguish itself or wrest the crown, although, which means individuals who get pleasure from Angel’s Envy possible gained’t contemplate switching (and those that don’t like Angel’s Envy might not take the prospect on the Ezra).
As there’s nothing clearly flawed with this whiskey, I can’t fault it; neither can I say I’ll be shopping for a bottle. No matter occurred within the course of the place an 18-month port end results in much less taste in a bourbon…nicely, one thing went off.
The Bourbon
In a Glencairn, golden blossom honey with medium rims sloughing into drops with no legs. Nostril is crimson grapes, gentle however recent. Tight nostril, laborious to drag so much out. Gentle baking spices, stronger clove notes with air (however not by a lot). Darker fruits like plums appear to need to come out however lack the power.
The palate is surprisingly gentle on taste, particularly with 18 months of port. Baking spice from the bourbon nonetheless hits the tip and entrance third of my tongue. Darkish-skinned however light-fleshed fruits proceed to outline this. Mouthfeel is – you guessed it – gentle, piquant, grape and watermelon candies add late sweetness on high of the peppery assault on my tongue. End is fleeting, candy and only a bit fruity, like how your mouth would really feel 5 minutes after ending your sangria. Gentle to the top, baking spices slowly dying down.
The Worth
Ezra Brooks 99 Port Completed Bourbon is priced at $35, however it’s listed with some on-line retailers for as little as $25.
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