Calistoga Depot Distillery is a brand new spirits model from the Boisset Assortment, which has of late been making a significant push into more durable alcohol, most notably tequila. The Calistoga Star is a extra anticipated providing from the notable winemaker — a brandy constituted of California wine grapes, named in honor of San Francisco’s first newspaper, The California Star. (Its proprietor, Samuel Brannan, was additionally a prolific brandy distiller.)
The Calistoga Star blends varied distillates that spend between 7 and 15 years in a mix of barrel varieties: 60% is column distilled and aged in used charred American white oak, and 40% is alembic distilled and aged in French Oak wine casks. The grapes used embrace chardonnay, French colombard, grenache, muscat, and symphony varietals. And as for the Calistoga connection, the brandy is definitely made in close by St. Helena.
Let’s strive it.
The slightly darkish, sweet-tea coloration of the brandy is clearly the results of some caramel addition, however let’s not maintain that towards the spirit. The nostril is more durable to elucidate, with a direct punch of black pepper tempering a extra conventional brandified sweetness — right here pushed by raisins and figs, some orange peel, lavender, and a little bit of rosemary. The pepper endures: Cracked black peppercorns are unimaginable to get away from, and one thing I don’t suppose I’ve by no means encountered in brandy earlier than of any ilk.
The palate is rather more conventional and anticipated, providing a candy however not overblown high quality that melts coconut and brown butter right into a frivolously raisiny core. More and more floral because it develops on the tongue, the brandy shifts to search out notes of lilac and baking spice, heavy on the ginger. Boozier than I anticipated — although it’s a little overproof — with a distinctly winey high quality on the end. Nothing fancy, nevertheless it grows on you.
85 proof.
B+ / $75 / calistogadepot.com
The Calistoga Star California Brandy 7 Years Previous
$75
