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| Hello, that is considered one of our (virtually) day by day tastings. Santé! |
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October 27, 2024
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Just a few prime cognacs to arrange for November
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In any case, cognac pairs effectively with fallen leaves and the final mushrooms of the season, doesn’t it? … So why not begin with some from the Borderies, the smallest of the crus?
Pied-bleu mushroom, Lepista nuda, previously Rhodopaxillus nudus. Very good mushroom that grows in winter (Sultiver les Champignons).
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Fanny Fougerat ‘XO Iris Poivré 10 ans’ (44.6%, OB, Borderies, 888 bottles, 2024) 
There was a earlier model at a extra modest 40% vol. which was nonetheless glorious (WF 86), and right here we’ve got a brand new bottling at a extra… whiskyesque energy. Color: pale gold. Nostril: there’s a sure rigidity right here, with some touches of polish, curry, patchouli, and an uncommon however very interesting trace of juniper {that a} malt lover would admire. A little bit of thuja wooden, inexperienced apples, notes of jasmine and violets, and solely later do you discover ripe peach, orange blossom, and sultanas. Mouth: we fairly benefit from the relative greenness, that peppery, herbaceous, spicy, and floral aspect. Poppy seeds, cinnamon, violet sweets, after which some fir honey. The curry notes stay current. End: a wide range of peppers take over, alongside liquorice, pistachio, and repair tree berry eau-de-vie. Feedback: pistachio and repair tree berries, that at all times works! Loads of presence on this younger model.
SGP:561 – 87 factors. |
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Cognac Park 5 yo ‘Mizunara’ (43.5%, OB, Tessendier, Borderies, +/-2024) 
Right here’s a kind of Cognacs completed in mizunara, as Courvoisier can be now doing. It’s actually not conventional, however after the preliminary delicate shock, one realises it’s essential to maintain an open thoughts. To be sincere, I’ve tried it earlier than and located it moderately gratifying. Color: gold. Nostril: it actually doesn’t have the depth of the Fougerat, however this light, woody aspect—sandalwood, incense, cherry blossom, and Earl Gray tea—works fairly effectively. Only a tiny trace of fir buds. Mouth: it’s moderately gentle and recent, nevertheless it feels a lot older than 5 years, little doubt the magic of that mizunara. A beautiful trio of liquorice, mint, and raisins. End: good size, much more liquorice, however the total profile stays the identical. Feedback: not a fan of the gorgeous hybrid idea, however I fairly just like the outcome (so maybe I used to be improper, as soon as once more).
SGP:651 – 84 factors. |
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Tiffon ‘Très Vieille Réserve Fins Bois’ (40%, OB, +/-2024) 
There’s additionally a Très Vieille Réserve Grande Champagne. This Fins Bois is a mix of very outdated Cognacs, over 70 years of age, so it strikes me as a bit odd that they’ve decreased it to the naked minimal of 40% vol. Color: amber. Nostril: all about delicacy, with outdated papers, beeswax, pollen, and a faint coastal contact (sea air, umbrella pines), adopted by some splendid honeys, notably heather honey. There’s one thing treasured about it; you virtually wish to nostril it in a big balloon glass aka fishbowl glass like our grandfathers used to do, however we’ll stick with our trusty tulip glasses. Mouth: peach and apricot liqueur, touches of fudge, extra of that great heather honey (truthfully, there’s an outdated Highland Park really feel right here and there), and a really gentle pepper. Cautious now, at 40%, it slips down like Franz Klammer on the slopes of Kitzbühel. End: not so quick, with light earthy notes, prunes, and pipe tobacco. Feedback: inevitably a little bit irritating for a malt lover, however that is fairly a unprecedented spirit. The best way to give it an inexpensive rating?
SGP:651 – 89 factors. |
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Please one other fins bois, s’il-vous-plaît, however at a a lot increased energy…
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Mauxion ‘70’s Decade’ (61.2%, By means of the Grapevine, LMDW, 42 bottles, 2024)
A micro-bottling composed of strictly all of the vintages from the Seventies. The bottling energy is kind of exceptional; one imagines some demijohns had been concerned. Color: darkish gold. Nostril: peach liqueur, maple syrup, beeswax, and wooden varnish. At 60%, it’s already displaying superbly! With water: the varnish lingers, whereas bay leaves, cherry stems, and mandarins be a part of the get together. Mouth (neat): we’re virtually veering in direction of outdated bourbon territory, with a contact of Calvados as effectively. Peach, grape seeds, and glue maintain sway with confidence. With water: service tree berries return, alongside fruit skins, and even a touch of banana and pineapple. It’s virtually like ‘any’ totally rounded brown spirit of excessive degree. End: lengthy, now virtually youthful. A little bit of liquorice and caramel, harking back to a traditional French candy known as ‘Batna’ from Kréma. Feedback: this one too is simply superior.
SGP:561 – 89 factors. |
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François Voyer ‘Lot N°81’ (52.2%, Spirit Co-Op, Grande Champagne, cask #BA-81/1) 
The home of François Voyer appears to be making a well-deserved splash amongst whisky fans, thanks to a couple significantly sharp unbiased bottlers (this one hailing from China!). Color: gold. Nostril: it’s fairly elegant, virtually discreet but additionally very complicated, beginning with delicate herbs and flowers (mint, borage, wisteria—although wisteria isn’t precisely delicate…) adopted by dried fruits, figs, dates, apricots, and a wide range of honeys. Actually very elegant. With water: admirable notes of hay and the skins of peach and mango. Mouth (neat): very good fruitiness, not so discreet in spite of everything. Winery peaches reign supreme, resting on a mattress of honeys, roses, and muscat. Properly, roughly. With water: no actual change, besides maybe a touch of persimmon making an look. Excellent certainly. End: lengthy, gentle, honeyed. Liquorice within the aftertaste, as is commonly the case. Feedback: have they planted a little bit of Gewürztraminer in Grande Champagne? Simply kidding. A superb outdated Grande Champagne with an impressive recent fruitiness.
SGP:751 – 90 factors. |
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François Voyer ‘Lot No°71’ (56.6%, Aesthetic Amber Alchemy, Edward Zeng & Viktor, Grande Champagne, cask #BA-71/1)
Color: darkish amber. Nostril: ah sure, we’re again with that lacquered profile, leaning in direction of polished woods (cherry, thuja) and an array of dried and stewed fruits. Loads of figs, thoughts you, with a delicate contact of almonds, cherries, and a touch of kirsch… oh, and peach jam alongside blood orange marmalade. With water: molasses, caramel, and agave syrup—all the things harmonising completely, as if it had been all choreographed. Mouth (neat): oh, completely. Glue, pepper, peaches, varnish, pears, darkish tobaccos, very deep honeys, cinnamon, jasmine… all of it bounces round like a mountain stream. Magnificent countryside Cognac—or one thing alongside these traces… With water: totally traditional, totally good, however do watch out to not add an excessive amount of water. End: exact, virtually easy now, with a light-weight earthiness earlier than shifting into menthol and resinous notes. Completely adore it. Feedback: that is the sort of outdated Cognac that reminds you it’s not some industrial concoction whipped up in a lab. I’m certain you get what I imply.
SGP:661 – 91 factors. |
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Vallein Tercinier ‘Lot 74’ (50.9%, OB, Wealth Options for Concord & The Whisky Antelope Macau, Fins bois, 2024)
Color: full gold. Nostril: fairly amusingly, you’ll be able to actually sense the extra rustic character of sure ‘bois’ right here, with whiffs of rubber boots, outdated apples, freshly reduce grass, mosses and ferns, outdated woods within the forest, and mushrooms… however there are additionally peaches, apples, honey and all that. With water: the outdated apples and musty cellar vibes change into much more pronounced. Mouth (neat): outdated calvados, pepper, rubber, outdated apples, lemons, oak honeydew… With water: not a lot change on the palate both. End: medium size, with hay, mosses, mushrooms, and nonetheless these outdated apples. Some figs add a contact of sweetness within the aftertaste. Feedback: I discover this fashion completely charming, with a little bit nostalgic twist that reminds one of many well-known The Connells’ ballad ’74 – ’75. Only a bit…
SGP:451 – 90 factors. |
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A final one for the highway…
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Jean-Luc Pasquet 50 ‘Lot 70’ (52.1%, Maltbarn, Grande Champagne, 84 bottles, 2024)
Over 50 years in well-behaved oak, and maintain on tight—it’s 2% of the value requested by a number of Speyside distilleries for a similar age, and for what may be lesser spirits. That’s sufficient to make a brick weep. Color: full gold. Nostril: truthfully, this might go for an important outdated Speyside of comparable age. I imply it. Honey, very ripe melon and mango, white chocolate, butterscotch sauce, roasted nuts, peach and apricot jam, a really mild smoky word, toasted bread, and dare I say it, shades of Fifties Macallan. With water: very good, with the faintest metallic touches. Mouth (neat): splendid fruitiness, honeys, roasted hazelnuts, tiny touches of molasses, a little bit of sherry (although in fact, there’s none), marrons glacés, and a touch of mocha. With water: hints of camphor, sultanas, and a contact of eucalyptus. End: lengthy but light. Oranges, mint, a drop of olive oil, and a superbly liquorice-laced aftertaste. Feedback: and naturally, assured with out paxarette or… French brandy. Properly, there clearly is a few of that (not paxarette thoughts you).
SGP:651 – 92 factors. |
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Zind Humbrecht 1998-2002-2003/2024 (57%, Beginner Spirit, eau-de-vie de vin, Pinot Noir Heimbourg)
Technically, this can be a nice, which means an eau-de-vie de vin very like Cognac. The wine used is Pinot Noir, as in Burgundy, although the terroir is extremely near WF HQ—barely a hare’s leap away (I can see it from my desk). Color: deep gold. Nostril: it opens with a stunning mixture of glue, varnish, and acetone, which we at all times admire when well-balanced, adopted by moss, ferns, grape stems, wealthy soil, and saffron, with hints of quince, apricot, and celery. There’s completely nothing ‘winey’ about it. With water: water brings out a pleasant wave of baked items, significantly amaretti and different almond biscuits with a contact of bitter almonds. Mouth (neat): highly effective and way more expressive on the palate, filled with spices giving it a distinctly oriental vibe. Assume turmeric, paprika, saffron once more, candied lemons, these bitter almonds, and eventually black cherries—such a Pinot Noir marker. The wooden is effectively in verify. With water: the feel thickens and it bounces round your mouth like a superball. Spices, candied fruits, and even a faint trace of salinity. Then once more, the ocean was nonetheless right here, in spite of everything, solely about thirty million years in the past. End: lengthy, candied, spicy, and peppery. You could possibly virtually think about having fun with this eau-de-vie with some strong Indian delicacies. The bitter almond word makes a comeback within the aftertaste. Feedback: I’m unsure whether or not it’s oak or beech—the Domaine makes use of each for his or her eaux-de-vie—however the result’s fairly thunderous (replace: it’s oak). Naturally, we love it.
SGP: 672 – 90 factors. |
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Alright, I believe we’ll attempt to add extra aged wine eaux-de-vie and marcs matured in wooden to our cognac or armagnac tastings over the subsequent few months.
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